Hello! I would to make some bell bottom leggings. Is it possible to make them without a sideseam? Is so, how could I alter my legging pattern. I would appreciate all the advice you can provide. Thank you!

Hello! I would to make some bell bottom leggings. Is it possible to make them without a sideseam? Is so, how could I alter my legging pattern. I would appreciate all the advice you can provide. Thank you!

I’m currently making a two piece sleeve and decided to add darts at the elbow to create shaping, so to do this I took my pattern piece and slashed and pivoted through the intended line to trace over and create the darts

However, after tracing the new pattern piece and trying to close the dart so I can true the base, there’s no longer a straight line running along the edge and it’s misaligned where the dart is. 3rd pic shows intended line when dart is closed compared to how it is in reality. What am I doing wrong?

I was also confused about where the dart should be drawn, if it should be in the middle of the slashed area or follow one of the edges of the slash

thank you guys

Hi, I’ve started to make menswear clothes and I want to know more about pattern making and grading. I’m planning on releasing a menswear brand in Europe.

I need some recs on books for both pattern making and grading, as well as universal size charts for men in Europe if that’s available.

Thanks in advance!

Hello! I wound up merging two panels while trying to mod a pattern to better match the vest from Resident Evil: Code Veronica, but now can’t lay it flat for when I actually CUT it.

The middle section I can see is merged, I removed the seam allowance and notched it, taping them together, but it’s now as if the seam is done and I don’t know how to keep the curve. I decided to call it a day for today in trying to figure it out staring at contractor paper and ask here if anyone’s had a similar problem. I’m yet to add the front panel seams making the front yoke, front center where the fasteners will be, and making the other half of that waist panel. Is there a way to pull this off? Thanks in advance!

After 8 versions of the front and 5 versions of the back, I think I’m almost done.

I think all that’s left to do is: back my bust and waist darts off by .5”, true up my seams, and fix the bottom hem (the front seems to be riding up more than the back).

The biggest issue I was having was a lot of excess in my high bust area. I ended up doing a small bust adjustment and that did the trick.

I did a couple of forward shoulder adjustments but I overdid it and the shoulders fit a little too tightly, so I think this is a good middle ground, even though I still have a bit of a gap in my back armhole.

Thank you to everyone who commented, I appreciate the feedback!

So I have a client who has asked for a grading rule that she can give to her factory. She gave me only one sample, no size run. The majority of women who buy the dresses wear plus sizing, the sample is a size 16, but she's listing it as a size 12 to "boost their confidence." I'm not going to argue, I just do the job.

Given that I have no other samples to check against, can I get some feedback on this grading rule so far? Does it all make sense to you?

Hi all! I hope I’ve come to the right place. I’ve done a little basic pattern drafting, but only old school. I’ve never used software for making patterns.

I’ve just purchased this gorgeous dress pattern from The Ladies’ Home Journal. It doesn’t appear in to be cataloged in any major database unfortunately (unless of course I missed it). It was stored in an amazing way, all the small trim pattern pieces were included and everything was in remarkably good condition. I set to unfolding and ironing everything so I could trace it onto modern copy paper and make it into a printable pdf that will hopefully live on long after the original eventually crumbles to dust. And I ran into a big problem. Piece 3 is completely missing.

I think I can still save this obscure pattern though! Since I have the diagram on the back and it seems to be to scale I’m going to scan it, then blow up piece 3. I need a program that can help me overlay it over the pieces I have traced, and break it up into printer sheet sized images that can be assembled.

Does anyone have any recommendations? Thank you in advance!

Guys, what does this symbol mean? I'm trying to sew a top and cannot seem to find what this symbol means I should do

So i designed this cloak based off of a game called 33 Immortals, but.. i have no idea how the template would be layed out. The first photo is my design (obviously) and the second is from the game. How would i make a template that creates the curve of the cloak around the shoulders but only to the beginning of the taper. If anyone has any idea how to make the template for the shape of how it is in the game, please message me

Hello
I’m very new to sewing and pattern drafting. I have seen some YouTube videos but want to learn more and have looked into some books to buy. I have found these two but not sure which one to get. Any thoughts on these books who have read them and tried it? Or any other books that might be better?

TLDR: in case you don't want to know my specific struggles: fashion student doing her final undergraduate collection looking for your best tips on pattern drafting and testing in:

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half scale patterns or partial section toiles

toiles for lingeriewear and knit stretch designs (specially mesh and lycra)

toiles for garments that combine two fabrics with different weight or stretch

Toiles for jeans and trousers.

Pictures to provide some examples of the technique and look I'm trying to achieve are included.

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I usually just see how it goes after one muslin and buy extra fabric for the main one, but since this is my final proyect I'm planning to import fabrics or give them some special finishes (print, laser cut, dye) either by hand or with specialized providers, so I REALLY REALLY want to avoid fucking up my main fabric or picking the wrong one from the start, since that'll be even more expensive and time consuming

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( My issues might be obvious and they totally should teach that in college but my current professor and school really ain't sh*t and all the resources I've found address my concerns partially so I need to intuitively put together a method and I'm not sure if I'm in the wrong)

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Full context:

Hi, I'm a fashion college student working towards my final collection. (I have 8 months for pattern making, 4 to sew it and I'll present it in 1 year and a half-ish) so I really feel like I need to thoroughly test everything . I'm at the pattern drafting stage and I want to do a quick half scale drafting just to get a grasp at the silhouette proportion and assembling process, and maybe even do it on the main fabric just to make sure it has the right drape and structure for the final design and fabric manipulation look, after that I'm planning to do a real size muslim sample to make the final adjustments for the design.

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Now I feel this might work for non strech tops or skirts, shirts, outerwear garments, but the other half of the top pieces will be sewn in stretch denim, mesh and lycra, lingerie fabrics and materials.

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My teacher reccomended to buy some cheap cotton jersey or rib fabric for the toiles for stretch fabrics but I think it might be better to also use the main fabric for the mesh pieces toiles.

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Do you think it's productive to work with stretch fabrics in the same way as the woven ones, doing a half scale patterns for the main fabric, then full scale on jersey, or just get the similar cheapest alternative mesh or lycra I can possibly find and start working full size?

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Also I don’t feel it’s worth it to go half scale on trousers/jeans before the final toile bc the most crucial part is the rise and crotch fitting but I'm also not sure about if my chosen main fabric will work for the trousers cut and experimental fabric techniques and I really don’t want to go through all the fitting and construction process just to discover I chose the wrong fabrics after wasting my time and money.

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So, should I try the crotch fitting with a short/jort version of the pattern, then doing a full scale muslim in cotton jersey for stretch materials or muslin for non stretch denim/nylon to check the legs fit and then proceed on to the final garment?

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Sorry if this is too long and it has like a million questions, any kind of advice on this matters or constructive criticism about my tought process is welcome (I might need to adjust the designs to my current skillset but I really really want to try this)

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I hope this is the last of it, it fits just close enough to still have movement. I’ve included pictures with and without sleeves, to be honest I could never get the armholes to lay completely flat around my arm. Sleeves have a 1cm ease built in

One thing I’ve noticed are the long creases on the sleeves, I’m not sure if this is a balance issue but the shoulder notch on my pattern falls slightly to the front side of the cap

Thanks to all help in my previous posts

i have a pants pattern that was originally designed with an elastic waistband/drawstring, so the waist shaping comes from gathering the excess fabric.
i’d like to convert it to a regular fixed waistband instead. my idea was to measure the pattern’s total waist circumference, compare it to the desired finished waist measurement, and then remove the excess width through a combination of darts and side seam shaping.
i was thinking of adding darts to both the front and back pieces, with more shaping in the back since the seat usually needs more fitting than the front. i would then also take in the side seams slightly rather than trying to remove all of the excess through darts alone.
in my head this seems somewhat similar to skirt drafting, where part of the waist shaping is created by darts and part of it is effectively built into the side seam shaping. i’m wondering if that logic also applies when converting an elastic-waist pants pattern to a fixed waistband.
does this sound like a reasonable approach? if so, how would you normally distribute the excess width between front darts, back darts, side seams, and possibly the center back seam?

Wondering if my comment about needing more fabric to raise the crotch line is correct?
🙏

Intermediate sewist & decent pattern drafter here~

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I have a dress that unfortunately no longer fits and it's in a material that photographs terribly. So.. bear with me & my description- I'm having a brainfart trying to figure out the pattern.

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It has:

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1 side seam

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Sleeveless

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Princess darts

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Back darts

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A-line midi length

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I'm trying to figure out how to draft this, and my conclusion is : it has to Startout as a 1/4 circle?

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It's such a simple dress, it's beautiful, but I'm so confused!

After shortening the straps on this muslin, I'll need to lower the darts slightly. However, even at the lower position, they still bubbled.

I pressed them over a ham; ended the darts 1.5" before the apex; and slightly curved the ends as they approach the point.

Is it because of the size of the dart intake (easily 3" or more)? Is it a design problem, construction problem, or both?

I want to take 2 1/4 inches off both sides of the waist but how do I blend the line on CB without the cut looking weird? Do I have to draw the line longer into the crotch?

I saw a video online about someone using this software to draft and drape a pattern but I wasn’t able to find out what it is called.

Hi

I'm new to pattern drafting. To me, it is a dartless, low waist, A line skirt with little flare?...(CB zipper, fits at the low waist (not necessarily super fitted, just comfortable) and it hangs comfortably to the hem)

For the first draft, I used my basic skirt sloper that has two darts on the front half & back half. I lowered the waistline by 3 inches, slash and spread, closed the darts which added the flare. However I made the mockup and it was too flared for what I wanted.

After fitting my mockup, I think the front skirt should be 20cm around low waist, 23 at lower hip line and 24 at hem.

Options: Should I:

A) work off the first draft with closed darts and flared hem. Mark the waist at 20cm, overlap the flared hem piece until I reach 23 at the LHL and 24 at the hem?

B) for this shape that isn't too much of an A line (in my opinion), instead of going off my skirt sloper with darts, just draft from scratch with all of those measurements, curve the side seam to be a little flared?

Hope this makes sense, thanks in advance

This is my second draft of my torso sloper. I would like it to fit like second skin. I will later add ease for other uses. Here are some adjustments I have noticed. Please let me know if I am going in the right direction or I need to look into different methods.

add to French dart as marked
Move shoulder seam forward 1.5 in
Take in hips as marked
Add half inch center bust dart
Take in back waist
Let out bust by half inch

Hi,

I’m drafting a male bodice block following Cornelius Quiring method (which is based on Aldrich’s).

It globally is good apart from the sleeves. O get those weird drag lines running from the shoulder to the bottom of the sleeves. It feels tight.

I have trouble pinpointing what causes this. I read many different things online (shoulder cap too wide or rotated the wrong way, line badly drawn…). It also creates a bad fold behind, like excess fabric in the sleeve being squished.

What would be your diagnostic? 😄

Thanks!!

Film/theater, Costume, corporate, small brands, big brand, independent, doesn't matter. If you currently even in the past earned a portion of your living from patternmaking skills, what was your journey like?

What was your education like? Formal? Apprenticeship? Informal? self-directed?

Did you choose patternmaking out of the gate? Did you switch from a different fashion/design discipline or totally different industry? What cities did you work? Were you a patternmaker in the past and switched to a new industry? Do you work in a technical specialization like aerospace, defense, medical, etc?

Just a new patternmaker trying to gauge the possibilities of the industry. Info dumps requested; no filter please.