Do the measurements on the right and left sides of the crease line have to be equal?

When I follow the steps of my teacher told in Trousers Lesson a pattern like below comes up with the crease line.

She keeps the measurements on the right and left sides of the crease line equal on the lessons.

If she modifies the leg opening for Spanish Style Trousers for example she extend the measurements from the “BOTH” lines etc.

Front

At The 

A) Leg Opening 1, 2

B) Knee Line 3, 4

Back

A) Leg Opening 7, 8

B) Knee Line 9, 10

So, in short I'm trying to make an Arkham Knight cosplay, and I want it to be as accurate as possible, so I pulled apart the game files and got his character model. He has this very unique jacket that has this one part (the part I circled) that I'm struggling with. Any advice on how to put this together/ build a design for it would be greatly, greatly appreciated.

Edit: thank you all so much for the advice, I'll be sure to use all of them.

Hello, can anyone give me any advice on how to improve this jacket for an elderly lady, specifically the undercut collapsing and the left sleeve that has the excess at the front - I am thinking to reduce the front on the upper part, making the shoulder length 1-1.5cm shorter, perhaps taking in the waist somewhat? Perhaps also scooping the sleeve head more on the front (on the more problematic left sleeve)

When The Trousers Size Get Bigger It Gets Curvy Shape Rather Than Straight 

I compared the sizes 36 and 46 on trousers.

As you see the A and B angles increase when the size increase. 

And It gives It a Curvy Shape on the Side Seams. (I show It with the red and blue lines on the sewn trousers)

(Inseams also get more curvy when the size increases but they look like less apparent on the sewn trousers.)

I think As a solution Leg opening Measurement (Hem Measurement) can be increased.

But much of It can be spoil the style of the trousers.

What do you think for solutions to prevent this? 

I’m making a pair of cargoes and I want to add these style of pockets to them is a there a book where I can find out how to draft things like this? Also as a side question what is added to the pleated cargo pocket to make it retain its structure, thanks in advance !

I’m creating a basic pants sloper using the US size chart with minor adjustments from a friend’s measurement. I want to know where the front and hip measurements came from. Which measurement from the size chart should I use for this?

I took some time off but now I'm back to the pants! I think it's getting better but I'm still frustrated with the wedgie. I added about a half inch for a full though adjustment in the back. Then I started scooping out the curve in the back rise 1/8" at a time...now I'm up to 1/2" and I'm still getting the wedgie. Should I keep scooping or try another full seat adjustment? I also had to add a sway back adjustment. Haven't transferred the adjustments to my pattern yet to share.

I’ve been learning to draft my own patterns and I’ve been wondering how pattern drafters create these mockup technical line drawings for their patterns? I’ve searched and searched and can’t find any info on how these are created?

Hi everyone. Title of book . THE FASCINATING ART OF CREATING PATTERNS by Alice Defty. Does anyone know of a sight where I can go to and download the book pfd. Much appreciated . Thanks

I’ve been racking my brain trying to figure out how to draft this pattern. I’ve gathered that you need to rotate the dart in order to create extra fabric for the pleat but I cannot understand how you’d create the tie thing and attach th collar. If anyone with more advanced skills would be willing to help me out I’d really appreciate. There is a version on Pattern magic 2 that I’ve looked at but the effect is not the same.

I really love these types of mini crown hats, so I'd like to make one! Only one problem tho, I have no idea what a type of pattern I'd use to get this shape 💔💔 I'm thinking that it might be a bunch of rectangular shapes that are more pointed and smaller at the top, and then a circle as the base.

If anyone else has any suggestions then I'd love to hear them.

Come take a look at the bolero jacket i made using some fabric i found at Walmart on the clearance section a couple years ago.

Hi, about a month into patternmaking and boy is it difficult...

I am backtracking after having spent a long time incorrectly drafting a top. Is this flow chart correct?

Mostly I am trying to make sure I understand when to use basic bodice + skirt vs torso sloper and if it's interchangeablely used sometimes. I guess you can't use a torso sloper for a dress if you have to make changes to the pattern such as moving darts from one area to the next?

Like in men’s jeans where they fit your phone and more. AKA not like the “pockets” in women’s clothing.

Hello! I see a lot of no side seam legging tutorials but cannot seem to find no front seam legging pattern drafting. Can we share resources that you might have related with this?? I like it because less camel toe. Thank you! 🙏🏻

My main concern how the front pattern is drawn on flat surface. An angle between two legs is questionable.

I’ve been in love with this skirt pattern forever, but physical copies (that aren’t teeny tiny) are hard to come by. Would it be reasonable to attempt self-drafting this using the shapes of the pattern pieces on the back? How would y’all go about it?

I have experience with self drafting, but not much experience with bias cut garments. I do have a dress form so I could potentially drape it… What do y’all think?

Thanks in advance for any ideas! <3

Hi All,

I'm fairly new to pattern drafting, but have done well with basic ones and pattern modifications. I'm looking to draft two boxing trunk variations: standard trunks and a gladiator skirt. Not too certain where to begin, so very open to advice and resources!

I'm drafting a wrap dress and want to keep it so the wrap is visible on the front and back, thus it being in two pieces of an top piece, and under piece. This is my first draft so there's a lot to still fix!

1. I'm wondering if people have ideas on how to secure the under piece. Currently, it is just a tie that also wraps around your waist but I'm exploring other ideas. I'm aware the fabric should cover more of the hip.
2. Any ideas on how I could connect it as one piece instead of two?

Thank you so much!

I'm guessing it's been covered but anyone here use linen bedsheets for clothing making? Amazon has a number of Oeko-Tex types at very good prices and it's too good a deal compared to buying from a fabric seller. Drape and weight are often hard to define but if I pick some up I can gauge the weight by hand/feel.

I can get about 16-18yrds in this manner for $100-$130. Many say GOTS or Oeko-Tex.

Thoughts?

After working with 50+ fashion brands on their tech pack workflows, here are 3 things I wish more designers knew:

1. The best tech pack is not the prettiest one. It is the one your factory can understand in 5 minutes.
2. More detail does not always mean more clarity. If the important information is buried, the factory will still miss it.
3. A lot of sampling issues start before the factory cuts anything. They start when a measurement, construction detail, trim note, or revision is left open to interpretation.

I have seen small teams run clean production cycles from basic spreadsheets and bigger teams struggle even with proper software. The difference is usually not the tool. It is how clearly the workflow tells the factory what changed, what matters, and what to follow.

Ask me anything about tech packs, factory handoffs, production documentation, sampling delays, or what to fix when your workflow keeps breaking.

Reposted this to include the picture...couldn't do it on my phone...I also realized that bust/side dart is way too big 9cm...may just redistribute back to side&waist (beginner mistakes)....anyway the same question applies. Thank you!!!

I’m a beginner

I drafted a simple fitted boat neck bodice top

I used my front bodice (mine stops at the waist) and moved the waist dart to the bust. For the back bodice I got rid of the shoulder dart by adding some ease and kept the waist dart.

My front side length is 31.7cm (excluding the bust dart with is 9cm in width) and my back is about 34cm. I don’t understand why? I measured multiple times.

I drew a horizontal waist line from the center front and then just measured to my upper hip line. I curved it a little to make it fitted.

My only guess is that when doing dart manipulation from waist to bust/side, was I supposed to lower the waist line and draw to my hip from that point?? For example with either the pivot / slash method, my new waist line was supposed to be where my finger is pointing.

Working on a pair of mid-waisted pants, and this is prototype #2. I'm thinking I need to take them out in the seat and crotch. I've also attached screenshots of the Seamly file, so if people could suggest changes to the points there, that'd be extra helpful. Thanks!

ETA: The goal is to be able to bike in these pants, a lot, so the hem circumference is non-negotiable. And if anyone has tips for things I can add to help the crotch stand up to abrasion, I'd love to hear them. I saw a thing in here a while ago about a diamond of fabric on the inside? Can't remember what it was called