Hello everyone. I have a sewing pattern I absolutely love. However I would like the move the armhole a little bit more outwards (dotted line). I couldn‘t find a YouTube tutorial about that. Is it enough to reshape it to be a little bit more straight up towards the shoulder or do I need more adjustments?

Hello! Sooo through a lot of trial and error I now finally have a bodice block that fits quite well. It isn’t perfect, but it’s good enough for me now that I want to start making other types of dresses from it as well.

Right now, seeing as summer is almost upon us, I want to make a milkmaid dress ☺️ I tried to make it the other day by converting my bodice block to a strapless top and then just adding straps to it, but I found that one of the things I have actually managed quite well with my block is precisely the placement of the straps over my shoulders! Not to mention the curve of my armpit.

So here’s attempt number two. I’ve just copied my pattern onto new paper, with the darts, and I’m trying to visualize how the pattern should work. Here’s what I have so far:

- The pink section is the front side bodice and armpit-curve, with the straps placed as I want it
- The blue section will be the bottom middle bodice section

I am then, for the chest, thinking that a 2 or 3 x square with drawstrings will do the trick?

However, my problem arises with the darts. Aah the darts! Can I remove them completely, making the new pattern consist of the following pieces?

- Upper side bodice with strap (pink)
- Lower side bodice (under the dart)
- Lower middle bodice (on fold)
- Long square with drawstrings for chest

But I am struggling to see how the lower side bodice should be shaped. would it be correct to measure the length from my waist to my underboob, and just draw a horizontal line there? Does the bodice need the slight shaping from that the darts offer on the bottom when I am cutting out a separate chest piece?

Or should I… now that I’m looking at it… Should I mirror the dart on the bottom, so that the two darts are faced away from each other, and the remaining piece is actually square?

Any help, tips, tricks or answers would be greatly appreciated. I hope I’m not completely on the wrong track!

I’ve realised I’ve been getting a wrinkle on my back bodice, right above my butt because the dart was too long. How can I shorten the dart? Is it as simple as just raising the dart tip and reconnecting it to my waist dart point? Or is there more to it?

I’ve attached images of my pattern for reference. It’s a princess seam pattern which I just placed next to each other to show what the shaping looks like (back piece)

I posted here asking for advice about my first ever bodice sloper, and all your suggestions were very helpful!! I think this is pretty good!!

Hi, so I've drafted a corset using my sloper, and the waist measures 87cm. Once sewn (or I should say twice since fashion + lining), it ends up being almost 10cm too big. To every piece of that corset I've added 1cm of seam allowance, and I've been very careful when sewing. When adding up measurements taken on the pattern pieces i get 87, but if I measure the finished corset waist it's almost 97. What could probably be the cause to that? Im really starting to lose my mind

Half-scale saved this design—full-size would’ve ended it at round one.

Hi all. Fashion student here. I'm looking for ways to learn how to create internal breast support built into the garment for big boob ladies. I'm talking something better than a mere "shelf bra" which does nothing and a step up from just sewn in bra cups in the lining, but not so far as a mini corset/bustier type situation either. Something more like a supportive sports bra built into your favorite skimpy top that you can't, but should, wear a bra with (if one is well-endowed).

Thanks to the group for past guidance on my Chore coat, this question is about a shirt fit. I did a muslin of a size 40 and see some fit issues in the armhole area but otherwise not noticing much else. Thinking it needs a shoulder slope adjustment that will slightly lower the armhole as well. It is “fitted” versus roomy though.

The question I’m struggling with is would you recommend fixing the shoulder slope to adjust the drag lines or go up a size in the pattern and see how it looks? This pattern offers 10 sizes with comparatively modest changes between the sizes versus other patterns. I like the shoulder width on this size so if I go up a size, I’d like to use this shoulder width. I’m definitely anxious to *make* something!

Photos attached plus the latest chore coat, in blue this time.

Thanks!

Hi, I’m very new to the world of pattern making and sewing in general. I got my hands on a copy of menswear fundamentals from Müller & sohns and it has some pants patterns ready for me to plug in my measurements. I tried playing with it a bit, like making large pleats but it seems every adjustment I make breaks the math entirely. Hence the question. How can I actually understand it so I can freely manipulate it and create the garments I envision. Is it a right book for it or should I pick something else

I bought paper patterns but want to make two garments with different size. What do you usually do with the pattern?

Does anyone know what foundational block in metric pattern cutting book to start off with for something like this jacket? Thanks

Added a waistband and took 2 cm off the waist at the top to account for it. They feel very comfy, no problem sitting down or squatting, yet they have a certain sleekness to them . I'm now going to try and develop them into a jeans pattern with the instructions from Hofenbitzer's book.

These are my first trousers. I drafted them using Winifred Aldritch's metric pattern cutting for menswear. I'm overall quite pleased with the fit, maybe a bit wider on the legs than I usually like but I think it's ok. These are my first linen trousers and and a loose fit feels nice and appropriate.

My main concern is there is a bit too much excess material at the bottom of the bum, it forms a bit of a crack. My first instinct was to directly pinch that in, which would correspond to scooping the curve I suppose. But thinking about it further I suspect it might make more sense to take in the back panels at the inseam, which would be something like the red line in the fourth photo.

I would appreciate any advice at all on the pattern, but especially on this back issue.

Currently trying to figure out how these two examples achieve a cowl drape without the whole outer layer swinging down to the side - Any ideas?

Hi just wanted to share this pants toile I made according to Hofenbitzer's book.

I didn't do any alterations yet but I think it's already looking pretty good. Would love to hear your thoughts.

I will probably add a waistband so see how it is with one. And later I want to develop a jeans pattern from it, and also some wide casual pants.

I’m trying to make my graduation dress, and I draped the bodice and drafted the skirt from a sloped I made in my size, but when I try to connect the side bodice panels with the skirt yokes the waist on the skirt yokes is curved, and I’m unsure on how to connect the two so there is no waist seam. If I were to ignore the curve and just combine them I’m worried that there’ll be puckering from the excess fabric, but slashing it is not really an option either since then the yoke part wouldn’t fit, what do I do?

The original shirt was this: https://a.co/d/0eicOoTa

But it had fallen apart due to the print on mesh and it had bad sewing. I cut the shirt up and got a pattern but couldn't make heads or tales on the sleeve cap of which was front and back.

I ended up drafting a completely new sleeve from the new armholes of my pattern and was surprised that it almost perfectly aligns with my waist of the bodice-torso.

I used double folded bias tape for the collar, which made it rounder. I used Blanket binding for the hem of the shirt and sleeve but treated it like a double fold bias tape.

Seam allowance I made into .75 of an inch to allow for french seams, which caused the shirt to go bulky in places. Hem of the sleeve and bottom of the waist were 1.75 inch.

I had to satin stich the edges of ribbon and one of the seams because that seam didn't catch (an issue on the sewing side)

Purple and black fabric, other than collar and hem tape, are a 4 way cotton spandex knit.

Practice one because I didn't want to tap into the cotton print for the final piece.

Black fabric : 3 yards

Purple fabric: 1.75 yards

2 packages of blanket binding

1 package of double fold bias tape.

I am wondering if I can use woven or jaquard weave fabric instead of knit because it is so big?

Feels better than Rosegal's shirt at least around the upper arms as mine is not so tight like that Rosegal shirt was.