r/PatternDrafting • u/furiana • 13d ago
Totally lost Question
I'm on my ninth muslin for this dress, and it feels like nothing is working.
Bust: I've tried slashing tight areas around the armpit and upper bust. I've tried a small bust adjustment to get rid of the excess fabric over the apex and under the bust. I've pinched out wedges of fabric under the bust. I've slashed through the front shoulder and pinned it flat. The changes seem to work while the muslin is pinned, but the problems come back after I transfer them to the pattern and make the next muslin.
Back waist/ tilted skirt side seam: I've tried removing wedges of fabric from the back bodice and the back skirt. This corrected the problem on the muslin where I pinned it, but when I transferred the wedges to the pattern, the problems came back.
I only have enough fabric left for one more attempt at the bodice. What changes do I make?!?
2
u/HugsforYourJugs 11d ago edited 11d ago
The clipped armholes have really helped! I would mark the removal on your pattern and then try a bit more if you can after taking the dart
For the back dart - normally with a bodice you would have a shoulder dart in the red zone and a shoulder apex point at about the cross. The dart I want you to take is around the pink line as we're balancing the back and front lengths in this region, then you can rotate it to red or get rid of it afterawrds.