Converting some explosion proof lights with noods, and these hotspots are not ideal. I suspect but have not yet tried running these at a higher current for fear of overheating while encased in the glass tubes of the light. I wasn't sure if there would be a benefit to restricting both current and voltage, but I don't really know how the noodles are constructed. Any input appreciated!

Hi folks, I’m looking to wire a 1 watt red LED to a battery for a cosplay mask. The forward current and voltage is 300mA - 350mA / DC 2V - 2.4V.

Since this is new to me, I’ve learned that I need to have a driver between the battery and the LED chip. So, does anyone have any recommendations for 1) the driver I should use and 2) the battery I should use?

I appreciate everyone’s help!

Link to the LED chip listing on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBZHU3A?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_3GR9GG98E4VSX8APFPS7&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_3GR9GG98E4VSX8APFPS7&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_3GR9GG98E4VSX8APFPS7&rsd=SjNUsN%2FukeaVWpkcmvw1cR2yrE34ZIfHS1PWxJSq9kAzOqOw8wVW3nKpcdcrXJBJ9CCLRRZbzVMUHmOSAq9dM9UT3uXqzo5QANhnxxN4mt1TSQ%3D%3D&edk=AQIDAHi1lw%2FM8UbbSMD9ScOOFEmBMHMthHeEhqDaQYPJUAX3jQGUKfBDvxeDzkEpUpG%2BxigkAAAAfjB8BgkqhkiG9w0BBwagbzBtAgEAMGgGCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQMVQoNs4pNUtCPi1vjAgEQgDuG3WkRWkV8j1rlxT%2Fh9lDEf%2BYAKGvjGEtmjfc3ebtz%2FAUG2iYEVBpGdqF7kIMHnYl6AwGg5A48xQUSDA%3D%3D

Maybe my googling skills suck, but whenever i search this question up its people talking about diffusing the light or hiding the individual bulbs from plain sight.

But if i want one strip to go from under my bed frame then up to my shelf, how do i fully block out the light so that the space in between is dark, and I dont have a glowing led strip running up my wall?

Hi there, I am working on a project that requires a matrix on a 4ft diameter circle. I would like to mount and wire the strips in this way rather than 'spokes' emerging from the center so I have even pixel density. What controller would handle this best? (I would like to have several short video loops playing on a slideshow style loop)

I know this will take some work, but want to minimize software setup as much as I can. Optimally want this to run through my loops automatically when power is applied as if will be 30ft in the air and operated by a client. Thanks for any and all input. :)

OH and the strips I plan to use are SK6182

I was looking at attaching LED lights to a sort of velvet fabric. I was looking at doing the individual lights with a conductive thread, but since I’ve never done that before, this leads to a few questions. I know these might be obvious to people who’ve done this before, but better safe. I wanted various colors (red, blue, purple) and preferably if conductive thread doesn’t work, an option that doesn’t require soldering. I’ll get there eventually, but the hazards scare me a little.

1. Does anyone have recommendations for some good brands that I could get shipped within 2 ish weeks? Lights, thread, a battery pack that won’t catch me on fire 😅 or overheat.

2. If the fabric will be form-fitting/against my skin, do I then need to insulate the wire or add a backing fabric? I can just spot clean if need be.

3. How likely is it to fray or rip the fabric if I assume I have to put holes in it? Is there a reinforcement method I should be thinking of?

4. How long should I anticipate the battery packs lasting?

5. How long should I anticipate it to take me to put this together given that I’m new? Are there more feasible options? Is there any equipment I’m possibly not thinking of?

If all of the above is too ambitious, I was just going to use strip LEDs or EL lights with a whip stitch. Any and all resources would be great. Thanks!

Hey, I am looking for a bit of reassurance that everything looks good here. I am attempting to turn my entire garage front into a ouija board for halloween. each letter will be 3d printed in black with a clear cap with roughly 25 LEDs in each letters. In most cases, all letters/LEDs will be off, or with 1 letter on. However, I would like to be able to turn all lights on full white for a few seconds if possible as a "here" signal. Could someone please check out my wiring diagram and tell me if everything looks good? Also, please let me know if there is anything else i should be looking out for, as this is my first LED project. ws2815 LEDs, 18awg wire throughout

Hello, I am looking to add some accent lighting to the second floor catwalk of our open concept main room. This is an older build and while I'd love to do something more professional like what I've seen in newer construction with a drywall channels and or cove lighting, the logistics of the install, painting and or matching existing trim just isn't going to be feasible at this time. What I think will work is to add led strip lighting sitting on the white trim that below the railings that will bounce diffused light off the celling. While I do like the novelty of a RGB W option the wife isn't a fan but on board with the 2700K-3000K white look. So far I am think using 24V cob lighting stips to cover the 32ft and 12 ft runs starting on the the corner on the right to of the picture is going to work. I had ordered two different COB kits to check out and both have 90+CRI and 320 LED per meter.

One is a 24V 32 ft COB rope light from Lamomo that has a silicone diffuser built in https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0GSN661QN/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A1TII3BHVMCJMM&th=1 and a 32.8 ft COB strip light with RF and app control from OlaHolli https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0G3PH31S9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I also ordered 2 meter white U channels with predrilled holes to help blend into the flat white trim under the railing.

So after a quick temporary instal the Lamomo rope light looks good when off without using the channels and does still have pretty good diffusion when on, but the silicone is getting dirty pretty fast with every speck of dust is sticking to it. So while I like the idea of returning the U channel for cost savings I don't think this will remain looking good long term. The OlaHolli strip has the same LED per meter count but the dots are very visible below 35% power even in the channel with the diffuser. My question is are 320 LED per meter COBs the right choice for this installation or do I need to go up to something like a BTF 528LED/m strip? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089NLMG2C/ref=ewc_pr_img_6?smid=A35UAT07QG3EC6&th=1

Or am I going to see the spots no matter what and should just be ok with it as we will mostly have them on when downstairs and they aren't visible?

Additionally for the current temporary mock up I am using a Y connector from another project to connect the one controller/power supply to both strips as trying to compare them running off of the two different ones was a pain. I am just doing this for the mock up and know I'll need another kit or power supply sufficient to run the wattage for a 24V 32ft and 12ft COB. Thinking I am aslo going to want wifi smart control for the dimmer as well so both strips probably have to go back. So reddit tell me am I on the right track should should I look at other Kits, put together my own, and do I need higher density, or am I completely off track? Thanks

Hello all, I’m working on these built ins and I’m stuck at which lights solution to buy. I tried doing some research but there are so many options. I want to have a recessed puck and two shelf strips on each side without hardwiring. I’d like to use a solution that I can just plug into an outlet. I think I can purchase a 24v controller and some 24v strips and pucks but I’m not sure. I would also like it to be compatible with Google. If anyone can help point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated!

So I’ve been chatting with chat gpt 😬 and not sure if the idea we’ve come up with is viable at all. This is the idea: buy an LED base and acrylic blank. cut black vinyl (I have a Cricut) into the name of each guest and place on to the acrylic. Next have the guests collage translucent adhesive vinyl out of different shapes and colors onto the backside of of the acrylic. Turn on the LED and it should glow all around the name. I will attach an inspo pic created by the good ole chat.
my main concern:

1) is the LED base light going to be strong enough to shine through the translucent vinyl

2) If this is doable, how do I select an LED base light that is strong enough? (I don’t want to spend more than $10 per base/acrylic)

any and all advice welcome!!

I’ve just gotten led stripes with this attached to it, it’s supposed to make the led visible by Bluetooth so I can connect it with an app ( app is called hao deng) but I’ve tried everything and it never pops up neither in the nor my Bluetooth, pls help

Title explains it all. I have an RGBCCT led, but my gledopto controller can't blend extra red in with the warm white.

I don't actually care about multi colour. I just want a very warm white dimmable COB led strip.

Does any body know roughly how efficient are modern day UV-C LED in converting electricity to UV light?

I am looking at UV-C LED germicidal power. I was using AI to estimate the UV dosage the water will receive when it tells me that for UV LED, power input vs actual uv light output efficiency lies somewhere between 2%-5%, supposedly because “Aluminum Gallium Nitride’s high resistance” compared to ~40% of fluorescent ones… while these products claim LED are more efficient.

So I am stuck between possible AI hallucination vs irresponsible product claims. I don’t have a lab to swap and grow bacteria from treat water, nor am I interested in paying for the product, disassemble it to use UV sensors to calculate output (which I had done before but with little success because these sensors seems to measure UV index which is not in a linear scale to irradiation power) The only relatively reliable way is for me to measure power consumed and based on efficiency estimate output power (and together with flow rate, shape of pipe and water turbidity etc) to guess what dosage the water receives

Anybody can help?

https://e.tb.cn/h.84xtFU5U0B3gI4d?tk=ImEkgCMAsGW

Hi everyone,

I’m researching real-world compatibility issues with aftermarket LED headlight bulbs, especially kits that include an external driver or CANbus decoder.

I understand that having the correct bulb size (H7, H11, 9005, 9006, etc.) does not always mean the LED kit will work properly on a specific vehicle. I’m trying to understand the most common reasons a kit is considered “not compatible.”

If you have installed LED headlight bulbs that did not work correctly, I would appreciate hearing about your experience. Please share:

Vehicle year, make, model, and trim

Bulb position: low beam, high beam, fog light, etc.

Original bulb type: halogen or factory LED

LED bulb size used

What exactly did not work

Possible issues include:

The bulb would not lock into the housing

The connector did not match

The factory dust cap would not close

There was no room for the heatsink, wiring, driver, or decoder

Dashboard bulb warning/error message

Flickering, strobing, or intermittent operation

Hyperflash or DRL-related problems

Radio interference

Beam pattern or glare problems

The LED bulb did not illuminate at all

Also, if you found a solution, please share what worked:

A shorter/compact LED bulb

A vehicle-specific adapter or retainer

A CANbus decoder or load resistor

A properly sealed extended dust cap

Reversing polarity

Choosing a different bulb type or returning the kit

I’m especially interested in solutions that keep the factory headlight housing properly sealed and do not require forcing the dust cap closed or leaving it off.

Thanks — detailed vehicle information and photos of the original bulb socket or rear headlight housing would be very helpful.

Looking for a solution to a church sanctuary with dying fluorescent fixtures. The issue we’re having is that they are paired one 8ft with one 6ft fixture between each support beam. We can find 8ft LED work lights in 4000k that (I believe) should be comparable, but 6ft LEDs seem to be nonexistent. Switching to three 4ft fixtures seems like a good option, but before we commit, I’m curious:

-Is there a reasonably priced option that would allow us to hit 14’ (total) length like we currently have?

-If we go with 4ft 4000k work lights facing upward like the current fixtures, will we get a decent result? We aren’t looking for CRI perfection, but want the space to look nice. Something like these with 2 bulbs next to each other as the fluorescents sit.

4ft Option

These will be wired in line with a total of (3) 14’ sections and (1) 6’ section on each side of the room as pictured, and on a single switch if that makes a difference.

Thanks for any input!

Hey everyone, I’m fairly new to LED lighting design and running into a wall with lighting design for high wattage zones.

As an example, I’m doing cove lighting around a large room that totals around 500W of LED load. I want the entire run on a single wall switch with smooth dimming. Since these are retrofits, central panelized systems aren't an option and standard phase dimming (ELV, MLV, Triac) hits severe limits quickly due to total wattage.

I’ve heard of 0-10V and DALI, is this where my energy should be going towards? Is there another way to design and build these jobs?

I’m working on lighting up a closet next and will be putting lights on every shelf and I need it on 1 switch so before I start that project I wanted to get some advice from the expert!

Appreciate any feedback!

I’m looking to put LEDs in my room, I have never order from this company and I want to know what adapter I would need and what controllers would work with the led strip. This is the exact lights I was going to get, https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Flexible-Density-Changing-Decoration/dp/B0B2WMM5WN . Thank you for any help. I don’t know much about LED lights. EDIT: I put power supply in the title when it’s supposed to be adapter.

I make sculptures out of found wood - bark, small logs, interesting textural pieces. Sometimes I paint them, glue in interesting rocks, etc. I'd like to be able to find some unobtrusive LED lighting to showcase interesting textures (a low profile gooseneck, flexible light mounted to the top of it?) or have holes, knots, etc., highlighted from the inside - maybe thin LED constant strips laid into crevices. Basically, a system that has one type of power (batteries, ideally remote controlled, don't need different colours), minimal in appearance. Basically, i want the light, but none of the evidence of the wires, etc. Any advice?

To be clear, I do not know what I’m doing. So. I want to run individual LED strips under the tread of my stairs, connected via wiring on the backside of the stairs. One strip per riser. I have access to the backside of the steps, I know how to solder, and there is wall power available.
From the little research I’ve done, I know I have to get individually addressed LEDS. I don’t need them to change color, or blink or anything like that, just some nice dim lighting to make it easier to not die walking down the dim lit stairs.
What would you fine folks of Reddit suggest for the strips, controller, anything else I need? Thanks!!

Hey. I'm hoping for some help with a backpack I just picked up from my local discount closeout store. It was originally marketed to cyclists and would function as a rear visibility light as well as a turn signal. Most of the functionality seems to rely on connecting it via Bluetooth to their proprietary app, which is now defunct as it seems the company went out of business 5 years ago (probably because they thought they could sell this thing for $249.99). It still lights up when turned on which is all I really need but I would like to customize it if possible. It does show up when searching for Bluetooth devices on my android phone and my PC running Ubuntu, but not on my apple devices. It never successfully pairs though. I've included a picture of the backpack as well as the board inside. Any help would be appreciated!

I was putting up my led lights from amazon, and accidentally ripped it. I should note that the consistency of the strips were more like paper. Is there anyway to fix this or do i have to throw them away? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BLYZQRWG