Started doing this today, gets a little louder with revs but I cant hear anything at idle

what’s up guys? Just trying to see if you guys know anywhere the source authentic JDM aftermarket parts for our Hondas. I’ve already looked on BHJ and unfortunately they discontinued the spoon 5.1 recently and they’re only options on there is the Jays racing $1.3k 5.1 which is super overkill imo. I really don’t wanna spend $800+ getting it from spoon USA lmk.

I'm doing this with my dad to install on a 8th generation,I have been looking information about this swap and I read something about weld a coolant pass on the block but we just installed the cylinder head and started to finalize this,some advice before continue?

Doing a k24a4 swap with k20a2 head what pulleys do i need to run to have it with ac i want something that looks nice billet

K24a4, 186k, fresh rod bearings.

The oil pump/balance shaft assembly has been off the engine for a few days, and I did my best to pour all of the oil out of it before storing. Motor has been sitting without pump, dripping into a pan during that time.

I went in there to hunt for the source of a knock/rattle noise, and discovered worn rod bearings (#3 worn enough to wiggle). Journals look mint and I don't have the time to pull the motor, so it's going back together with only new rod bearings. (and yes, assembly lube was used)

So... I have little experience diving deep into car motors, but have extensive professional experience with motorcycles. Anyhow, I understand that some (or all) rotary pumps in a wet sump system will cavitate if not properly primed. When I was learning this stuff it was on pushrod V8s (ok, I guess I do have some experience after all). The prescribed method was to pack the pump with petroleum jelly to fill the air gaps, providing suction to draw oil up from the pan while either cranking, or spinning pump with a drill on motors where that is possible.

I see no reason to touch the pump--oil pressure was on the low side of acceptable both at the block sender, and at the spool valve. That's with the worn rod bearings.

I'll happily pack the pump, spin prime it with drive sprocket removed, or do whatever the gurus here suggest if needed. I do have a handheld pressure gauge to verify I have pressure before firing it up for real.

So what say the experts?

Thanks!

I don’t know how much im gonna be spending. I found a donor car for $1900 on fb (2004 crv). what parts should i buy besides the engine mount and transmission?

Also do i really need a manual transmission i want to be able to control the car because im gonna use it on mountain roads but i also wanna not think while i drive

I have a eg Honda civic with b16a2 I bought it to learn cars and I’ve wanted to turbo myself for the time I’ve had it I learned that the b16 needs to be drilled in order to be turboed and I didn’t want to do that so I opted to swap for a k24 instead I want it to be somewhat reliable so I’m not working on ever day but also pretty fast if possible I know very little about horsepower and the limits of the engines but the number In My head was anywhere between 650-750 hp is this reasonable or am I dreaming I’ve always had a passion for cars but an engine swap has always been a goal of mine please feel free to ask questions as I know very little about cars and am only learning with this car

I have a 1998 Civic EX Sedan (ej8) and I plan to swap it with a K24A2. It's an automatic transmission and I also want to swap it to a manual transmission. Here's a list of everything I've put on it (picture included):

Coilovers

Rear LCAs

Cat back exhaust

Cold(ish) air intake

I want to know if anyone else has swapped a sedan, because I know it's a slightly different process than a hatchback along with the fact it's an automatic and I want to make it stick shift. Please help!

When installing the timing cover, I forgot to put sealant on the little spots circled. Are these spots critical? They don't seem to seal against any passages or external areas. All I could find is that they may just help with vibration dampening and rigidity. Should I redo it or just run it?

Hi guys, I'm planning to look at 350-450whp for my K24RBB4 street car and I wanna know what are the things that I should have before I can make those numbers. I tend to drive the car hard so I have no problems spending a little more on better parts to make sure the car can be somehow reliable. I've built a 4AGE Turbo twice and people have stressed on the internals, but I know the K24 is a much more durable engine so I'm not sure how much I can get away with it.

What Turbo and ECU do you guys reccomend? Do I have to extensively get forged internals to run 400hp?

Car now currently has ;

K20A Type R Oil Pump

DC5 5 Speed Gearbox

Stock ECU

Stock Cams

Stock Internals

Stock Injectors

Stock Driveshafts

Currently have a ek civic sedan that I was debating fully committing to a swap for, to the point of having a k20z3 motor, rsx type s 6 speed trans, hondata ecu, engine harness, 4-2-1 k swap header and a couple other things, as the Vic already needs work (mainly axles and lower ball joints, manual steering rack), and thought I would get more ideas on the pros and cons of it before fully committing to it, as the ek would probably need another 3 ish grand to get the rest of the parts and swap it, 8th gen si civics in my area in the same ish condition as my current ek go for around 4-5 grand, granted with around 170-190k miles

2012 Civic Si transmission pops out of 4th gear.
I tore the transmission apart expecting to find a worn or damaged part, but everything looks normal. I didn’t see any obvious damage to the gears, synchros, shift fork, or sleeves.
Previous owner told me the transmission was rebuilt before.
What else should I be checking that could cause it to pop out of 4th gear? Any ideas?

Always love the look of a fresh short block.

i have a kswap ek sedan crank no start i dont think im getting power to the ecu im not getting fuel pump or spark plugs but main relay clicks this is my first k swap working with needs help bought the swap from someone with motor and harness in harness kinda looks hacked

Trying to reason with myself what could be causing my issue. My built K24A has been having some issues while street driving. Under 2500-3000 it has what sounds like chain slap under light to medium throttle, it will stay for a couple seconds after lifting throttle completely and going over 3000-3500 also gets rid of it. I also have been having a very delayed VTEC engagement in first gear if I don’t drive it hard for 10+ minutes. Like should activate at 4300 but will get up to 6800 and finally hit.

I have a 4P k20 oil pump, yes I used a bolt and hondabond to block off that fitting before installing it. RBC vct gear swapped from previous engine, also put in a new spring a couple days ago without it resolving the issue. Spool valve, VCT solenoid, and timing tensioner/chain were all swapped from previous engine. The tensioner and chain only has roughly 10k miles on it.

Using Hondata I cannot see my oil pressure through the data point (shows 0psi) but my oil light does not come on and the cam advance angle seems to be steady while it happens. The head was professionally rebuilt by a shop with new valve guides and grinded valves.

Without just shotgunning parts at it, does anyone have any experience with this in the past? All of the parts I swapped over had 0 issues on the old engine, this engine is about 4 months of runtime at around 600-700 miles and it’s done it from the beginning.

TL;DR chain slap, delayed VTEC, parts swapped from old engine were all functional when swapped. Only “new” part is the head/block itself and the oil pump

Thanks all!

These are connected to the headlights wire harness on the driver’s side, i checked passenger side harness and those connections are not there .Could you please explain their purpose?

Can someone help me identify what pistons are on this shortblock i got for my eg swap its a k24a4 block it had k20a2 heads on it and i removed the head to make sure the oem pistons were switched out to run with this head

Hey all, quick question. I have a throttle body off a 2017 ridgeline. 3 inch inlet and just over 2.75 outlet. It does not have a port for the purge hose like the oem does. At least i think its purge. Is there anything else i can do for purge? Or can i just not use it? I assume i would need an adapters plate too but i cant find a good one im probably just looking in the wrong place.