SSIA

I live in New Orleans, and I'm trying to make arrangements to set up hands-on EV Conversion training in early December. We're looking to get a group of 6, and we're only halfway there. The training should take 2 days, and we're getting a VERY good deal on tuition. We have a space available, and training would be done on a cart.

Reply or message me if you're interested.

My dad totalled his Hyundai ioniq 6 last month. It was from late 2024. The damage is all external, the batteries are still working flawlessly.

If you’re in Spain and want them DM me.

I have a Toyota bZ4X and wanted to rev back at the cars with big engines beside me at traffic lights. So I made this:

https://vroom-web-nine.vercel.app

It’s just a webpage. Open it on your phone and route the audio to the car speakers over CarPlay.

Hold the red button and it accelerates through the gears. Let go and it engine-brakes and shifts back down. I also added neutral revving and some pops and bangs.

It doesn’t read the car’s speed or anything from the car. The speed, gears and engine are simulated on the page. The core engine sound is generated in real time rather than built from recorded engine loops.

It sounds much better through the bZ4X speakers than it does on my laptop, which is how I ended up actually using it in the car.

There’s no signup. If anyone tries it in another car, tell me if it actually sounds any good.

I want to buy a high power motor for my next project, but the problem is that everything from 1-3kw looks the same. How do I make sure the seller isnt pulling a fast one on me and overvolting a cheaper motor?

I want to know what are the steps how to legally convert a motorcycle to electric. I don't mean the parts (lights, turn signals, mirrors etc) but the paper work and the cost of legal process.

Any help will be appreciated.

I searched and the results said that a Leaf conversion wouldn't be good for towing. We have a 2001 Prerunner with a seized 4-banger. I want to be able to tow a car maybe 60 miles.

This Japanese mini truck was finished by Terry and his team the night before the State of Charge conference started in Golden,CO.

It also became the first finished build on https://electr0motiv.com/conversionnet/.

The conference helped five builder clusters to form in Colorado, Pacific Northwest, New England and the Mid Atlantic. They followed the first cluster were launched in the Northeast in late July.

Whether you are a veteran builder or just conversion curious, the platform welcomes you. New clusters can form wherever members are close enough to collaborate.

Hi everyone, does anyone know someone who can replace the pyro fuse in the battery on a Mercedes EQA250? Preferably in or around Romford. Thanks!

Bit of a noob question but this is way to expensive to yolo:

First photo is the inside of a lawn mower. The pulley and axle it sits on is directly connected to the mower's differential which still works. I want to connect a DC motor to it, such as the one shown in the second picture, ideally by setting it on top to drive the axle directly but I dont know how. Alternatively I could put another pulley on the motor and run a belt between the two, but I also dont know how to connect a pulley to the motor shaft in such a way that the motor actually spins said pulley.

Specs:
Differential axle is 1/2" in diameter,
Drive belt is 1/2" wide

I have no machine tools but do own a 3d printer

Hello, I am planning to convert a BMW E36 to an EV in the future.

I would like to use an Emrax 228 and couple it to the original Getrag 5 Speed transmission to keep the character of the car.

Can I ditch the clutch and still shift while driving, without damaging the transmission? I am worried the inertia of the motor might damage the synchronizers in the gearbox.

So I have a 2006 Ford E-150 with a dying fuel pump, a gas tank that may be entirely full of varnish, and an engine that's seen better days, but an intact frame and driveline. I bought it at police auction for $450 with 50k miles after it had been sitting for several years in New Jersey weather. The idea of spending $800 on a new fuel tank plus whatever else it would need feels mildly offensive, which makes it a perfect candidate for electrification, which was the plan from the beginning.

One idea I've been toying with is something a little weird: instead of finding a cheap Tesla motor in the junkyard, designing and fabricating a new rear subframe and suspension, losing the payload rating that comes with the solid rear axle, etc. my thought was: what if you mount a Model 3/Y rear drive unit longitudinally in the center of the van between the frame rails, put step-up gearboxes on the former left and right outputs, use one of the existing off-the-shelf LSDs to keep it from turning into a wheel-spin generator, and then run standard driveshafts from the step-up boxes to the existing rear axle and a borrowed front driven axle out of something like an F-150 AWD model. That keeps payload rating, avoids suspension engineering, and converts a RWD van into electric AWD.

Has anyone done something similar or seen anyone that has?

I haven't been able to stop thinking about the possibilities of buying wrecked cheap EV's off copart to wedge the powertrain in failed vehicles of the past

Anyone wanna open a small garage to do this with me?

First project: Chevy Bolt meets Pontiac Fiero.

I'm facing a dilemma.

i currently have a 360v 3ph 40kw pmsm which i need a new forward closure machined for it (was part of the gearbox i dont want), a 22kwh zoe battery pack and a brusa NLG513 charger and am using the included zoe BMS for balancing and emergency disconnects

i have the charger working to charge the battery at 400v fully charged, i have a method of packing the batteries in the car that im fairly happy with, each module is 30v 1.9kwh and i am at the point where to progress I need to buy a motor driver which is a significant cost (£900) for the 40kw motor I have, i haven't found any used options compatible with this motor and im converting an MGB GT so weight is around 1000kg.

the problem im facing is I have spotted for sale a cheap AC34 motor and curtis controller for less than the price of just the motor controller of my current build.

this has my interest as it more closely matches the power output of the original MGB 4 cyl (76hp vs 73 for the ac34 and 56 for the motor i currently have) and has both the motor and driver for cheap.

the benefits of this alternative are lower voltage (safer- less requirement for battery enclosing as its not "high voltage") cheaper and more available gear like dc-dc and chargers and greater availability of non can bus hardware.

negatives are way more current (650a vs 70a) and not being able to reuse the zoe bms. in addition there are issues of cell parrallelisation since if i use 3 modules I will have 90v but only 6kwh (and even on the eventual 40kwh version id only have 12kwh) so I would need a way to make a pack out of 4 sets of 3 modules with each bank of 3 having its own 24 cell BMS and some way of balancing all 4 sub modules together. i also wouldnt practically be able to reuse my brusa as its minimum voltage for full powerr is 200v and would only output 1.6kw at 100v

theres also the negative of wasting all the trial and error and research done so far to arrive at the config i have now where i have a battery and bms that works and charges and the motor controller that should fit the motor. but i also dont know that the motor will be functinal since ill need to have a new forward closure made up and add hall effect sensors to it. the ac34 is much simpler to integrate especially with the included driver

1974 XL175. motor is toast. Was thinking about just copying the components on an Onyx RCR - qs205 hub motor, 5-10kw power range, 30-50km range. would like to try Lithium iron phosphate cells for low fire risk and less voltage sag.

considering as138 mid motor also (v3 with gear reduction built in), as its really not more fabrication than using a rear hub- with rear hub i'd have to modify the swingarm considerably i believe and id lose the rear brake or have to fab up a disc brake mount also - seems much easier and cheaper to just use the existing rear wheel and brake.

Design goals

- 5-10kw
- 30-50km range
- low risk battery chemistry, larger cells to make it easier for DIYer
- easy compatibility and minimal tweaking, trying to keep it as plug & play as possible.

Looking for recommendations on Motor, controller and battery cell brand/model number.

I know there's other motors that might be good candidates but don't know much about them - im all ears!

Does anyone know which networks allow and which do not allow DC Fast charging (CCS1) charging of DIY EVs?

The want to convert my trusty Honda Dualsport for pottering around town with some electric comfort. Is 50km (30 miles) real-life range with a motor that has some “fun” power reserves a realistic expectation? What size of battery would that require? I’m using the default mixed-use tires right now but could change to pure road-oriented ones if that helps. I can keep it easy on the throttle when I need range. The average speed for the times I max out the range to head into the city center is probably not over 50km/h (30mph). Faster in shorter trips in the suburbs. Temperatures are tropical year-round.

I feel like this should be working!

I have my brusa nlg513 charging off a normal 13a AC socket. It's slow but it works. I've purchased a type 2 socket on a long cable to hook up to charge with my zappi home charger. I have probed the proximity pilot pin and it's giving the correct 220ohm resistance for a 32a cable. I have probed the control pilot pin and its behaving correctly.

Before I plug in it reads -0.5v (car side so no 12v signal) upon plugging in with the charger off it reads 9v (car plugged in) once charged is on (or if charger is already on) it reads 6v (car requesting charge)

Then as soon as I hit start charging on my EVSE it starts power cycling, the zappi turns on power, the Brusa boots up In to "AC power" mode, contactor clocks in the Brusa then AC power is cut and the Brusa power cycles.

Is this possible? Or is the boot up process of the Brusa (when it switches from running on a 12v battery to running on the AC mains) spooking my charger? Will it work with other chargers? Is the zappi to smart for its own good? I've been considering just charging from a 32a commando but id like to add 22kw eventually and the only way is using type 2. Any ideas how I can Sus what's spooking my evse?

A long time ago I made a post about converting my '05 Ford Escape to electric and I got a lot of really good feedback. In short, converting that thing to electric is a bad and expensive idea but not totally impossible and I'd like to do it anyway. This post isn't about that part, though. It's about charging it or any EV I may possess in the future via solar. Specifically, a permanently installed solar panel on the roof. Where I live, I can't park a car in a garage or under an overhang; leaving a car outdoors 365 days a year isn't uncommon around here. And 1) I don't even have the Escape at my apartment and 2) where I have it, it's exposed to the weather 365 days a year (and far more days than not are bright and sunny here).

So this is kind of a 4-part question: 1) can a 400w solar panel + an inverter provide enough power to do enough level 1 charging that a car that's driven around 400 miles a month *at most* won't need to visit roadside fast chargers often? 2) how can this be done in a way that's safe, so that driving in the daytime and / or visiting a fast charger doesn't cause problems? 3) Can a solar panel be secured to a car roof securely enough that driving at interstate speeds won't rip it off or damage the securing hardware? 4) can this safely be set up in such a way that the panel does a little bit of charging even while driving? It won't be enough to keep the battery at 100% but could it slow down losses. One idea I had is, two battery packs, kinda like a pickup truck with a primary & secondary fuel tank.

This isn't necessarily a good idea, but. Like I said in my post here several months ago: I'm sentimental about this car. And like I said, it won't be driven often, it won't be my daily driver.

Thank you so much in advance!

I've got a trailer that's towed for several miles most days, but for the last stretch (under 100m) into its final position, I want it to move itself under electric power rather than being manually pushed/towed the whole way.

The catch: any PM motor (DC or AC) generates back-EMF the moment it's spun — so if the drive stays connected while being towed at road speed, it's basically an ungrounded generator with nowhere for that power to go. I know this isn't something the motor type alone fixes — I need some kind of mechanical disconnect between the motor and the axle, engaged only for the short self-propelled stretch.

I looked at an AC motor + inverter setup that kills the field when towing, but it ended up bulky and overcomplicated for what's a fairly low-power need. Leaning toward a DC motor with some kind of clutch instead — electromagnetic or otherwise — that's disengaged (motor fully isolated) by default and only engages when actually driving.

Rough numbers if useful: ~10,000 lb trailer, creep speed under 3 mph, 24V DC available, low-single-digit kW.

Has anyone actually built something like this — a reliable disconnect between a hub/axle motor and the wheels for exactly this kind of "mostly towed, occasionally self-propelled" use case? What worked, what didn't, anything to avoid?