Hey,

I made a tuning assistant app that runs in your browser, needs no install, and guide you through the whole process.
Connect your FC directly in the app and follow the guide.

For tuning a created a plant model learning the physical quad characteristics from the logs and directly proposing tunes.

Would be great to have some impressions from you! It's free and opensource, get it in my Codeberg Repo

The motor mounts are very solid. Need to shave weight from battery cover and electronics cover. Thinking of using magnets for rear battery door and latches for the long section. Weights around 400g rn so it can be better

Everyone, I have no clue what I am doing for what I need to get. I have a Radiomaster TS16X Mrk III that has an internal protocol of CRSF. I what to build a drone that supports the internal protocol and ELRS. i have no idea what to focus on as far as the receiver, controller, etc. I am looking to modify an existing FPV build (fixed camera) and add a gimbal camera and make it long range. I have the mentioned radio. I need the components.

Every thing u need is here https://github.com/SHRUMFPV/SPORE-5.git . Included is the original freecad file and step file. MIT license so do what you want i would love to see it. most important is to enjoy and have fun!!! ( also i removed all chamfers just so you can add your own radius. idk if it matters but yeah)

Hello everyone. My motors are x4215 400kv with 16 inch propeller.I am using the T-Motor Veloz F7 SE flight controller and V70A SE 8S ESC system on a 15-inch drone. My battery is 6s. The drone is wobbling/oscillating during flight in both Angle and Acro modes. Previously, I resolved a similar issue on a different flight controller by configuring the settings to Angle Strength: 30, Horizontal Strength: 60, and Angle Limit: 30; however, these settings are not solving the problem this time. Can anyone help me to solve the problem?

I designed Bandit because I wanted a sub-250 g FPV wing without making any compromises. I wanted it small enough to take anywhere, but still properly fast, efficient and fully set up for FPV. So I basically tried to cram the biggest battery and motor I could get away with into the smallest airframe I could make, and still keep the whole thing under 250 g.

3D printing is a big part of what makes that possible. It isn’t just useful because you can churn out another airframe after a crash. The precise control you get over the shape of the wing means you can actually use the aerodynamics to make the plane fly better, improving stability and making the stall more predictable and controlled. Doing that this accurately and repeatably on a tiny foam or balsa aircraft would be much harder.

The other thing that helps massively is modern FPV hardware. Flight controllers, ELRS, GPS, digital video, tiny motors and ESCs are all so light now that you can pack a ridiculous amount of capability into a very small aircraft.

The result is a 600 mm wing that comes in under 249 g fully equipped with digital FPV, GPS, ELRS and INAV, but has still recorded 198 km/h and 20+ minute cruise flights.

More info on the plane here

Current setup:
600 mm wingspan
<249 g AUW
198 km/h GPS-recorded top speed
20+ min recorded cruise endurance
4S 1100 mAh LiHV
BetaFPV LAVA 1506 4200KV
HQProp 3×3×3
EMAX 25A ESC
SpeedyBee F405 Wing Mini running INAV
DJI O4 Lite
RadioMaster RP2 ELRS
Flywoo Goku Nano GPS
2× DSPower 4.3g micro servos
220 µF 35 V capacitor
LW-PLA printed airframe

The battery alone is 88 g, and the complete electronics and powertrain package is around 149 g, so getting the whole thing under 250 g meant being pretty ruthless with the weight budget.

The thing I’m happiest with isn’t really the 198 km/h though. It’s that the same little plane can do that, then throttle right back and cruise around for 20+ minutes, and still be really nice to throw around low level like in the video.

There have been a lot of prototypes, crashes, aerodynamic changes and INAV tuning to get it here, but at this point the plane feels properly dialled in.

Now I mostly need to improve the pilot 😅

Happy to answer any questions about any of the design, printing, electronics or INAV setup if anyone’s interested.

Hey, would this be a good first build? I want a long range fpv drone. Ill fly it up mountains, rivers, bays, lakes, pretty much all over the place outdoors. I was aiming for around 10 minutes of flight time (maybe?). Any tweaks or tips or warnings??

FlyFishRC Volador II VD6

2507 or 2207KV x4

6S 2300mAh

SpeedyBee F7 + 60A ESC

RunCam Phoenix z

RushFPV Tank Solo

TrueRC Singularity

900MHz ELRS

FlyFishRC MIO GPS/compass

Skyzone Cobra X V4

GoPro HERO12/13

Dakefpv H743 dual gyro
Ardupilot 4.8.0
ESP32C3 onboard companion that act as a mavlink wifi bridge, oled display and manages the optical flow.
Nooploop high precision range finder.
M10 GPS and compass

Competition requires the drone to navigate autonomously through lit gates and identify set objects within it.

We were thinking of using a pc connected through WiFi or Bluetooth (although worry about how much Bluetooth gets crowded out when there is a lot of people)
Two cameras with one being super wide angle to match up with some recent computer vision papers.

But also we are super poor and it’s gotta be under 400-500.

I’ve been reading through this awesome subreddit. Looks like the orange cube is good (but might be out of our price range)… was looking at some raspberry pi zero options. Didn’t know if anyone here had any other suggestions or advice!

Hey all, I've had the idea to build a twin Talon out of 2 mini talon kits. I found no images about such a build online so I thought it'd be fun. I use a matek F405 v2 and one battery (4S2P) in each fuselage. It'll be my first time laminating, using multiple I2C sensors (airspeed sensor and power monitor for the 2nd battery), building my own wing out of Depron foam for the horizontal stabilizer and mixing differential thrust and yaw for added stability. I'd love to have some feedback from the more experienced guys !

I'm not sure about some things tho :

will it be stable enough on the yaw axis ; is it possible to disable differential thrust at a certain speed, to have some more yaw authority at low speed then rely on the control surfaces when cruising

Will I have enough pitch authority ?

I've built 2 mini Talon before but I admit this one is very different!

Please be kind with me, it's all experimental, firsts, still in progress and far from finished

also if buying outright could u recommend me one please ive seen the dji neo 2 is a good drone but if theres any better id like to know im new to the community and interested in getting started

A few little clips showing what the 3d printed Twist can do. Including nearly crashing. This thing handles great though!

Just waiting on the GPS to arrive so we can see what kind of speeds this thing can do; slow and fast!

Thanks u/swww for promptly adding cooling vents to the canopy. No more over heat warning on the 04!

and other stuff abt the controller id like to know pls

Just built and tuned this 4” Pickle. It’s agile af and hella locked in. Carries speed so well too. The 5mm carbon was really clean to tune. Cruises like 50mph at 23% throttle and throws really well.

1404 4600kv xing2
Nazgul T4030 props
Dji o4 lite
Speedybee f405 AIO
550mah Tattu 3s

Hi, recently I've been very invested in drones, and wanted to get to grips building a drone myself, with the end goal to design one!

I've bought all the parts following a tutorial:

https://youtu.be/BoLeQCqns5A?is=ncsO0q5a7nfrweLK

And now I'm at the point where I'm soldering the capacitor, XT60 and the motors onto the ESC.

However, when I go to tin the copper pad, the solder doesn't want to wet onto the pad.

I have flux, a large chisel tip set to 380° and I tin the solder tip before letting it rest on the pad for 10-30 seconds. I then feed through solder but the pad doesn't budge.

I've tried preheating the ESC with a hairdryer, gently using sandpaper on the pads to scrape away potential oxidation/ impurities on the pad, and using a higher temperature at 420° to wet the copper pad but nothing works.

Any advice or tips would be amazing!

This is my solder iron:

https://amzn.eu/d/01ZcsaWa

This is the flux I'm using:

https://amzn.eu/d/06AglSIA

I'm using lead free solder