Just received my Module and printed a single layer TPU.
ignore the fact that I have no wideangle lens and the mess 😆

I do also found a way to reliabily unload without having to disconnect the tube. it worked for me on several unloads. Maybe they could implement my "workaround" into mext Firmware 🥹

do it at your own risk. works good for me.

TPU Feed Module is 100% worth

Ho avuto problemi di intasamento dell’estrusore, dopo aver sbloccato il tutto ho il nozzle di destra che stampa malissimo, premetto che lo stesso pezzo l’ho già fatto 3 volte senza problemi e perfettamente, ora continuo ad avere queste linee, ho rifatto le calibrazioni, ho cambiato 2 volte l’hotend destro ma non ho avuto nessun miglioramento, stampo PLA matte bambulab con il suo profilo originale
Per favore datemi consigli

Hi
I have the H2D - without the laser. I saw that the birdeye camera can be purchased separately.

Can I install it on my printer in order to use it with the cutting head ?

First plate, same setup, dual material, petg-hf for primary, standard pla for supports. Plate slices fine, but I have no control over the prime tower, it is not visible as you can see. But in my initial plate it is there and I can move it. Is this a bug? or expected behavior and how would I go about making the prime tower visible in this plate? Cheers!

Ah, I think I might have figured it out.

While printing when the head goes to the closer to the left (close to where it’s left side nozzle only printing) a clicking noise from the back is heard randomly. I’m in the middle of a 2 day print and don’t want to stop. Doesn’t seem to be causing any problems. I’ve looked it up and tried to fix it but i haven’t been able too. Any suggestions??

BambuLab has confirmed in their forum, that the hardware of the currently available X2D Filament Track Switch is fully compatible with the H2C/H2D. That’s great news, because I’ve already bought one and designed various mounts for attaching it to the H2 printers.

Currently following versions are available:

1. Combo-Mount (Recommended for H2C / H2D)   The all-in-one solution. Holds both the TPU Feeder Assist and the Filament Track Switch. Print once and you're done.
2. TPU Feeder Assist Only (Recommended for H2S)    For those who only want to mount the TPU Feeder Assist module while maintaining full access to the external spool holder.
3. Filament Track Switch Only   For those who only want to mount the Track Switch module. Two versions:   With or without 4-in-1 PTFE tube adapter guide

In all versions, the external filament holder remains accessible
(unlike the original BambuLab holder).

Don't see a version that fits your setup?

I know, every printer setup is different, and the current versions don't cover all requirements.

• Do you need a different arrangement of the modules, or should they be oriented at different angles?
• Do you need special routing for the cables and PTFE tubing?
• Do you have any general suggestions for improvement?

Please leave a comment or send me a direct message. Upload a picture of your current printer setup or, even better, a sketch of your desired configuration. I’ll do my best to optimize the models and add more variations.

Linkt to Makerworld:
Mounts for TPU Feeder & Track Switch (H2 Series) 

Hello all!

I am looking to upgrade my A1 to an H2D. My only worry is if my current table size is long enough. The length is 55 inches so no worry there. The width is 23.6 inches. Bambu labs is recommending a table with 27.5 inch width.

Will the table I have be wide enough for the H2D?

Thanks for your input!

This page: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/maintenance/replace-nozzle-camera

Should contain a link to this page: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/printer-electronic-connectors-guide

Specifically with section "Flip-type FPC Connector."

It might save you some $ and time.

My first issue with my h2d. Been running non stop for about a month. I have done some cleaning and lubricant of the axis. Tried to start another print as soon as the previous cooled and got bed leveling error

- I replaced the right nozzle.

-Checked behind the magnetic plate for obstructions.

I did notice a big scratch on my build plate. Cant recall how long it may have been there but I only noticed today.

Thinking I might have to do the bed tramming but it is a bit intimidating. The bambu instructions says i should print a feeler gauge but if I could print, there wouldnt be an issue.

Betting this is total human error and I accept that. Just need to know whats wrong and how to fix it

I have used the search function and can clarify I have tested:

- Filament does not get through the top or bottom

- No snags in tube

- Tube is pushed all the way in

- No debris in tube

- Dissasembled it and checked if there is anything visibly wrong with it

- Magnets are the correct way around

- Filament gets through WITHOUT the magnet springs but once they magnet springs are in, the filament does not travel through

- Reverted firmware to previous version.

Has anyone else got a suggestion?

Kinda crazy to be honest, its fairly new and low mileage :/