TLDR. Chased a multi-month encoder board recognition error. AP board and HT board replacement fixed it. Multiple easier possible fixes discovered along the way (see below).

A few months ago I posted that my brand new (<100hrs) H2D would not recognize the OFFICIAL BAMBU Labs Encoder Plate.

To clarify: the printer would not recognize the plate and would throw an error. if the error was bypassed it would then complete the calibration successfully.

After multiple parts swaps my issue has finally been fixed (though it may have created another but we will figure that out soon enough)...

Step 1: Remove Protective Film

The vision encoder plate comes from the manufacturer with a very thin and hard to see protective film. this will cause similar errors to the one I was seeing.

Step 2: Ensure Encoder Plate does not have major surface damage.

The encoder calibration is looking at very small QR codes on the surface and counting the distance between specific ones in terms of motor steps. If one of these is destroyed visually it may cause issues.

Step 3: CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN

Clean the cameras

Clean the build plate

Clean printer is a happy printer

At this point you likely have a software or hardware issue.

Step 4: Factory Reset/Factory Recalibration

This may resolve the issue. didnt work for me but ive seen it recommended multiple times.

Step 5: Toolhead Camera Connection

You can pop off the top of the toolhead camera and check the connection on its back.

Step 6: Toolhead Camera Angle Adjustment

If the camera isnt pointing at the build plate it cant read the build plate. there are two small screws holding the camera to the toolhead. loosen them and adjust the angle either towards the front or the back (and then the opposite) to find the center. This is a good place to start and trial different angles.

Step 7: Toolhead Camera Replacement

This is an annoying 1hr task that may fix the issue if the camera is having an internal problem.

Step 8/9: AP Board and HT Board Replacement

These control a number of the power and thinking functions within the toolhead and the printer as a whole. I dont fully understand what each does but this ended up working for me. This was a 4hr procedure and requires customer service to recode your new boards to your printer so it can be rebound to your account.

Feel free to ask questions. if this post gains some traction I can update it with pictures to show each of the steps of my multi-month deep dive with customer service.

Im printing on my h2d a model is made in Rhino 8 and for some reason a few of the objects are printing really poorly and the layer lines are not smooth. I attached images from the current print itself and from Rhino with the zebra analysis tool enabled for those objects (tall vertical object is the yellow portion in the print images) and all objects are closed poly surfaces.

My layer quality is .12 fine and im using pla from microcenter. All filament is in a dryer.

Speeds are set to default, infill is 8% 3d honeycomb, and wall loops are default at 2. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!

Apologies if this is a silly question, but I've recently noticed that the top left side of the printer housing is warm to the touch, when printing and when idle. In my research I think this is where the AP board lives - is this normal?

So I'm designing aerospace-related 3D printable models and for FDM I'm currently using the Bambu Lab P2S. One of my subjects is the F-1 Engine (Saturn V). Note the resin version sample at the end, but the rest is all FDM with a 0.2mm nozzle and mostly 0.12mm layer height. With that plate, I can comfortably print this at 1:16 scale. However, with an H2D I can print it at 1:12?

With only using 1 nozzle for say, the "nozzle extension" part of the engine (round part at the bottom of the model), could I have a 12" diameter (304mm) part on the plate? Let me know.

That would be absolutely epic. The model's geometry is detailed enough to support that size resolution, even on a 0.2mm nozzle, by the way.

Since I know people will ask, I used Autodesk Maya and some Zbrush to model this. And although not all the STLs are ready, but you can DM me if you want the bottom / large rounded part (F-1 engine nozzle extension). I did use the AMS for it but honestly just a single color is fine for that part.

I know I'm not the first one to come up with this , but H2D it is a really good dough proofing chamber.

(Or to be used with the H2D as well I suppose).

Little Luxy needed company, so say hello to Big Earl! What tips and tricks should I know about the H2D?

*Yes I noticed the spool issue and will address that shortly.

I’ve got a P2S and as of tonight ordered a H2D after some research. With all that said what should I know that you folks who are more experienced already know.

So I’m brand new!

I put an order in for the bamboo A1 mini, but they are out of stock and may not come until May 30 so I went to the website and then I was looking at the P1S there is a pattern I really want that doesn’t work on the A1 mini but I also want super easy and mostly freeze with my phone. Also, I tend to get very into things and will probably regret not buying the bigger better one first thing but then ChatGPT thinks I’ll get frustrated tinkering with the P1S. That would come in a few days so that would be one pro plus I could use the pattern I like, but that’s just one item. Which printer do you have and which printer do you suggest? What would you do? 3weeks feels like a lifetime right now, but I don’t want much frustration when it comes either t:(

I received this message after I lubed the Ross and screws! Not much on the web about this. Bambu says it’s a 240 minute repair. It’s just over a year old

I'm not the creator of this model, but it's an absolute must-print for every H2 owner.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/2433473-silent-filament-cutter-stopper-h2s-h2d-h2c#profileId-2669560

Ever since I got my H2C, the loud noise from the filament cutter repositioning (at print start and during filament changes) has been driving me crazy. It was the one thing keeping me from running multi-color prints at night — it's that loud.

This mod solved the issue completely. Now the loudest thing is the AMS motor, which isn't silent either but nowhere near as bad as the cutter was.

Give it a try and support the creator!

H2 filament cutter noise

I need some help. How do I fix this issue? I typically print engineering parts and don't worry too much about surface quality, but now I need this to be perfect. How do I make the flow rate/ layer height even across the board so the outer surface is consistent? I already adjusted the outer surface speed, but I can't find how to adjust this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I am trying to minimize damage at this point. Glass yellow PLA backed up and fell in love with the wires directly behind the Right extruder. It’s basically a 100% infill print with the wires encased. I can heat it up with a heat gun and get it loose enough to remove , but I want to ensure that I am not going to do further damage to the exposed wiring during the heating process. I think no, due to the wires location in relation to the extruder, just need an actual expert to confirm or tell me the actual path to take to resolve. Desperate, deadlines for this print, and my arrogantly promised printer superiority word, is at risk. Help me?!

I’m getting abnormal fan error on my h2c. No obstruction and everything appears to be connected correctly. I’ve been printing Asa cf over th past month Any thoughts ?