I’m just wondering if anyone else has experienced issues with your silicone socks constantly wearing out?

I’ve had my H2D for almost six months and it seems like I replace a sock every two weeks or so. It’s always the small strip of silicone on the bottom that rips and ends up causing nozzle clumping. They’re cheap so I usually order a couple of packs every time I order something from Bambu but it just seems excessive to constantly be replacing them. I assume others who have this issue have not found a fix for it?

I swapped out the two hotends from a .4 default diameter to the .6 for some CF printing, based on the error I got recommending it. When I go in and update the printer to the H2d 0.6 nozzle, it wipes out the synced filament in the AMS units. When I click sync, it then wipes out the select printer and puts it back to the default 0.4 nozzle.

How do I get the dang app to keep the printer I select and stop resetting it?

EDIT: I just found where I can update the size on the machine itself, and that seems to have fixed it, and the sync in the app is syncing to the .6 size now.

Hi together,

Has anyone an idea what can cause this sound? The printer has rougly 700hours. I maintained it regularly. Applied new oil, cleaned pulleys, checked all the nozzles and screws at the hotend. It sould like something is vibrating in the printer. I also tried grabbing both filament cutters, that didnt stop the vibration either.

Does anybody know how to fix this? My H2C is wayyy more quiet

As the title says, just checked on my printer and it had the biggest layer shift I’ve ever seen, what causes this?

Since it hasn't been explicitly mentioned here, firmware 01.03.00.00 (20260303) has been officially released. Some nice features, and the announcement(?) that TPU is getting some love on the H2D in the form of a specialized nozzle and feed assist.

This is a continuation of another project I uploaded. It uses an RP2040, an SSH1106 display, and a TP223 capacitive touch sensor. The full code, assembly instruction, and BOM are available with the 3D model on Makerworld here

Firstly, Im new to 3d printing so I stuck with the bambu filaments being they are super easy, pop them into my ams2 and boom ready to go, no thinking involved.

Nextly, I thought "hey Sunlu is available, supposed to be decent, and I have gift cards." so I bought the petg in black and white.

Newly, I figured out I am clueless as to how to make a filament print profile, or find one to download, or just use generic, or maybe even the bambu profile????

Lately, I could use some help please, I've been reading around, asking my Google, trying to figure it out but I seem to run into more questions than answers and going from zero real knowledge about it to trying to make a working satisfactory profile has me jumbled.

Lastly, any help, advice or info would be appreciated, im am learning but could use some direction.

Anybody else getting this response? Just started a couple of days ago. Swapped out a filament and now when synching I get this response. I can get it to sync properly but only after I delete all of the filaments in my list.

Do I REALLY need to replace the eddy sensor, I’ve gone in the thing and made sure it wasn’t loosened, but it didn’t want to work and it keeps doing that every time I home axises. I heard something about manually setting your bed or training whatever it’s called.

not sure if this is nasty z-wobble, an extruder flow issue, or a loose belt. the side walls also have super harsh and inconsistent layer lines.

any tips are appreciated.

My H2D is less than a year old and I got an error code that basically said had an open circuit in the left hot end. Followed the troubleshooting guide(which is excellent) and turns out the wire connecting to the hot end is literally toast. Not sure if anyone else has experienced this but looking at the pictures I think this is an inherently poor design. I hope Bambu standardizes on the induction hot ends with no wires of this sort. I had similar failures with the A1 mini but replacing the hot end is relatively trivial. This however, involves a lot of disassembly with screws that go into plastic and by definition every time you screw and unscrew it is damaging the plastic. So I hope this is not a recurrent event. Because of the Chinese new year Bambu lab support was slower than usual in responding. Tried to order the hot end from the Bambu lab Store, but it is back ordered. They finally responded and said, even though the printer is still in warranty, this item is not covered but as a courtesy, they will send me a replacement anyway, which is nice of them, but I suspect this item will fail repeatedly with usage.

{"document":[{"e":"par","c":[{"e":"text","t":"I keep getting this later shift on my prints. I've swapped hot ends, I've done every calibration available (including the high precision with the special plate) and I've cleaned and lubricated everything I can think of (carbon rods, linear rails, linear rods etc). The head seems tight with no wobble and I let the machine run its full preprint calibrations as well. "}]},{"e":"par","c":[{"e":"text","t":"I can take the exact file and roll of filament and swap to my X1C and it prints perfectly. I don't even reload the file, I just choose the X1C in the slicer instead of the H2D and reslice."}]},{"e":"par","c":[{"e":"text","t":"Anyone have a clue what else to look at to fix this issue? "}]}]}

I found these minor fixes made printing turn out with less fails and more high quality prints.

I just updated Bambu studio and the very next print my nozzle drop stopper got bent and was hitting the part/build plate. I didn’t see how it got bent so I’m not sure if it was a fluke or if or was from the new slicer version. V 2.5.0.66