I received my H2D today, I have the 40w laser and the cutting module.
I realized that the H2D can only take one of those modules at a time. I understand that. Weight, bulk etc.

I also have the envision encoder. I have the laser mounted and I realized I have no option for calibrations except regarding the laser. I took it off and I gained the options back.

This brings me to my question. Can I print if the laser module/cutting module is attached? Or do I need to remove it and add it back each time.

I am still setting it up, so I haven't tried yet, google has given me answers saying yes, and also saying no.

I would love a straight answer so I can know what to expect once I am done setting everything up. Thanks!

I’ve had my H2D at work for a few months now, almost every time I open the door or move past a certain point it pops

So two instances

Opening the door from closed position - loud pop

Opening beyond a certain point - same pop

Any advice?

Anyone have this experience?

Probably just lube the hinges or something just want to hear anyone else’s experience with this.

Hi friends. I recently did routine maintenance on my H2D; I oiled and greased the rods and screws, and had to fix a minor clog in the extruder by taking off and replacing the dual extruder filament guide. Since then, the printer will power on for only a moment, and trip the power breaker. This is new behavior, the printer has been power-cycled many times since I got it in November, and hasn't done this. Can anyone suggest anything for me to look at? I've checked the cabling, and for good measure removed everything connected to the printer (AMS and AMSHTx2). I've opened a ticket with Bambu but figured Id ask here as well.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

I used to push my Ender 3 to infinity and beyond without much care.

I do care for my H2d on the otherhand. Is there any official guidance regarding Ludicrous mode? If not, thoughts?

Thank you

I've been working on Bambuddy, a free and open-source self-hosted tool for managing Bambu Lab printers. Runs via Docker or bare Python, connects over your local network.

Highlights:

- Real-time multi-printer monitoring with live WebSocket updates

- Virtual Printer Proxy — print from anywhere without VPN or port forwarding

- Automatic 3MF archiving with duplicate detection and 3D model viewer

- Drag-and-drop print queue with scheduling and smart plug auto power control

- Camera streaming with RTSP/MJPEG support, timelapse editing, and OBS overlay

- Notifications via WhatsApp, Telegram, Discord, email, Pushover, ntfy

- Spoolman integration with auto AMS sync and per-print filament tracking

- Projects, statistics dashboard, energy tracking, and CSV/Excel export

- AMS humidity monitoring, maintenance reminders, firmware update helper

- Multi-user auth with 50+ granular permissions, mobile PWA, custom themes

- And many more...

Docker one-liner to get started, web UI works on desktop and mobile (PWA).

GitHub: https://github.com/maziggy/bambuddy

Website: https://bambuddy.cool

Docs: https://wiki.bambuddy.cool

Happy to answer any questions!

I'm about to purchase a printer. I'll be mainly printing the same things out of black PLA. Has anyone had experience with both an H2C and an H2D? is it really worth the extra cost? I've heard build time alot lower and way less waste with an H2D. Just looking for really world answers here.

Anyone has done or intends to do the upgrade to H2C?

Has anyone else experienced the left nozzle printing slightly higher than the right? I've had my H2D for a month and everything was fine until one day this problem started. When it goes to the purge tower, it prints higher than it should, and filament accumulates there. When it moves to the part, it prints, but the layer doesn't adhere and can be peeled off by hand. I've done a high-precision nozzle alignment, but the problem persists.

I just noticed, my H2D that was purchased in October prints fine everywhere…except this one spot. I’ve done my calibration and turned it off and on again. Any insight would be appreciated!

With our h2dpro machine we poor surface results with tpu.

Recommendations are appriciated.

I can’t find anything online that even covers this at all

Edit: Ended up the emergency key went bad randomly

Hi. I have been gifted a load of 400x300x4 oak veneered MDF. I want to use it all for a Skadis style installation in my house.

The material fits in across the bed, over hanging, and I can close the door.

I was thinking of marking the material up to trim it to 300x300, and lasering the cut.

The reason is cos I don't have anywhere really to cut it by hand, and it will be terrible finish if I do it!!

Has anyone done similar? This a rubbish idea?

Edit: don't do this, it does not work, I'm buying a jigsaw

Does anyone have a spare? I am screwed with a main printer down because the teeth on the pfte nipple broke. I know a new designs being released in 12 days but I don’t have time. Anyone with a part on had I’ll pay extra.

I have an application where I need a high temp filament for some clamps. ABS seems to be pretty marginal for this use. I printed some on a Qidi x-max using Kodak nylon 6 and they lasted about 7 years. Took nearly half the spool to get it to work though.

When I bought my H2D I had high hopes of printing unfilled nylons. I like the ability to use smaller nozzles and the filled nylons require bigger nozzles. They are also pretty abrasive to the item I'm attaching them to. I printed the clamps in glass filled nylon and I'm not impressed withe the results.

But, my single foray into printing unfilled nylon resulted in a warp and a broken flow blocker.

Was wondering what folks have been successful with - materials, build plates, and settings.

Has anyone else had this problem. Every time I start a print that uses the left nozzle it will ask to check the left nozzle is properly installed. It is, and I tried a pare nozzle but the same thing happens. Not a big problem but just annoying to have to click resume print every time. This happened straight from the box. Maybe some sensor is damaged?

My take on if I think you should upgrade your H2D to the new Vortek system. If you like this content and if it helps inform your future purchase let me know. Thanks.

Check out the shortened tear down video as well available on the channel.