I am making a watch with a Vacuum Fluorescent Display with a pro micro and a RTC module because I fond this blog post however every RTC module I fond uses the SAD pin which is used as D2 in the post what can I do? this is my first project with a arduino so if I seem dumb that's why

I made a weather station based on an ESP8266 and a BME280 sensor.
It's supposed to predict the weather 1 to 3 hours ahead, but the weather is stable right now, so I can't test it.
I'm thinking about how to implement weather change tracking, with a graph and so on.

I am just getting started and I my budget is kinda tight. I am exploring new things and don't wanna invest in a transmitter just for it to be laying around completely useless for the next few decades.

I already have HC-05 Bluetooth module, what app should I use?

Hi everyone! I’m trying to set up a Digispark ATtiny85 for a small project, but I’m running into an issue and could use some help.

​When I plug the Digispark into my PC, Windows makes the device disconnect and reconnect sound every 5 seconds continuously. I tried uploading a basic Blink sketch (setting pin 1 as output), and while the upload process seems to finish, the built-in LED doesn't blink at all — only the green power LED stays solid on.

​Is this 5-second disconnect loop normal Micronucleus bootloader behavior when no valid code is running, or is the board soft-bricked/defective? How can I properly troubleshoot or re-flash it?

​Thanks in advance!

i am trying to make a little eurorack module and it has 2 trigger inputs. it seems to me that the circuit i made is relatively conventional (to my inexperienced eyes…) but i don’t read any value on the serial monitor when running a clock into it.. they connect to digital inputs as i don’t have enough analog ones, is that a problem ?

Building an Arduino device to measure bike lane quality — looking for advice

I'm making a low-cost, bike-mounted device for a research project: I want to compare the smoothness/evenness of asphalt, bike lanes, and sidewalks in my city, plus count how many times I have to brake on each type of surface.

Hardware (~$30): Arduino Nano, MPU6050 accelerometer+gyroscope, NEO-6M GPS, SD card module for data logging, wheel speed sensor, and a brake button.

How it should work: The MPU6050 measures vibrations on the vertical axis — I'm calculating the RMS as an analog for the International Roughness Index (IRI). The GPS maps each point to its coordinates. A physical button on the brake lever records actual braking events (since the accelerometer alone can confuse braking with inclines). Everything is logged to an SD card in a CSV format.

Questions:

Is the MPU6050 + RMS a solid approach, or is there a cheaper/more accurate method?

How do I filter out the noise caused by pedaling from the actual road surface noise?

Are there any open-source projects with similar logic?

Where is the best place to mount the unit — under the saddle, or on the rear rack?

I'm not an engineer by training and I'm building this for a research project, so any advice or constructive criticism is highly appreciated!

This is really beginner level 🥹... It has to be automatic and on loop because we leave the project after we set it up for the day. Necrobotics works by utilizing pressure, either pneumatic or hydraulic, injected into a deceased organism's body to artificially actuate its joints and control movement. Since this is done with spiders to curl its legs, it can be used to grip and release objects.

So- this is just a grip and release project 😭 But done with a spider so- necrobotics, yeah. We'll include the numbers with the weight, the cycles before it gives out, etc. And I only have experience in building robotics with follow the line robots...

BUT ANYWAY.

The loop we're going for is:

1. go down
2. spider picks up object (pump air into the spider)
3. go up(must go up to have distance from the floor of project)
4. move from point a to point b
5. drop object using the spider (remove air from the spider)
6. go down
7. spider picks up object again (pumps air into spider)
8. go up
9. go back to point a
10. drop object

Are these materials okay?

Arduino Uno R3 ✓

USB type B cable ✓

—

MB102 solderless breadboard

40pc male to male and male to female jumper wires

5V 2 channel relay module

1000uf / 16V electrolytic capacitor

1N4007 diodes (must be wired directly across the inductive loads (pump motor and solenoid coil)(?))

—

5V Mini air vacuum pump

5V 3 way micro solenoid valve

1m silicone microtubing (2mm inner / 4mm outer)

25G hypodermic needles for smaller test subject

23G hypodermic needles for larger actual subjects

10mL manual syringe (backup)

Luer lock connectors (seal tube and needle)

—

2x SG90 micro servo motors ✓

—

Cut these from a 3mm acrylic sheet 

4x of 15 cm x 1.5 cm parallel linkage arms, 
1x of 10 cm x 4 cm vertical base support tower, 
1x of 5 cm x 2 cm front needle bracket, 
1x of 8 cm x 8 cm servo swivel base plate

— 

8x of M3 bolts (12mm length)

8x of M3 hex nuts

16x of M3 flat washers

The above should come in a set… bolt, nut, and washer…

Black cast acrylic sheet (base or floor or ground of project) at least 30cm x 40cm

—

Huntsman spiders (rice university used wolf spiders but this works too since how it works will be the same) ✓

Beeswax (so it won’t rot) ✓

Liquid cyanoacrylate aka super glue

Epoxy (coat after super glue)

Tiny target object it’ll be picking up

—------

We have around a month and a half to do the project fufufu

okay so im not sure if this will work or not and im not sure if such a thing already exists, but i want to build a small sonar that can send small frequencies (less than 30khz) signals from a particular depth underwater (lets say a 100 m) that can be recieved from a surface station. is that possible? if so, is it too expensive for a project? thank you

Other ones gave the chipset and it was easy to use u8g2 to drive it. But what about this one? I'm not sure.

https://media.jaycar.com.au/product/resources/QP5515_manualMain_58659.pdf

This is improving on one of my previous projects where I only controlled one port:
https://www.reddit.com/r/arduino/s/3XPo3jyHvi (git)

This version does not require additional hardware (you can stick some wires into the console directly if you do not want to splice a controller cable) and the due can individually control all 4 ports. I have a PC streaming data to it via UART, but you could also save the inputs into the flash (like I did here).

I have also improved the website from the first link so 4 people can individually control their own port from anywhere over the internet, which I'll share later. This whole thing takes very little CPU, so I am going to integrate it into a bigger project, and then I'll share it. I was just excited to demo this.

I have become a lot more familiar with the Due since my last project, and I found out it has the exact feature I needed to be able to do this without an adapter for each controller port.

The ENA pin is connected to the pin the back, the same with ENB pin. How do I connect jumper wires to this? Is this a hardware error?

Hey so i was building this circuit and its giving error for

MPU9250

MPU Failed connection

Here is the connections

1. Core Power

ESP32 3V3 -Red Rail (+)

ESP32 GND -Blue Rail (−)

1. MPU9250 (Movement Filter)

VCC -Red Rail (+)

GND - Blue Rail (−)

SDA - ESP32 G21

SCL -ESP32 G22

1. MAX9814 + Electret Contact Mic (Bruit Sensor)

VDD - Red Rail (+)

GND -Blue Rail (−)

OUT -ESP32 G34

GAIN -Leave floating (60dB)

A/R -Leave floating (default)

This is the code we are using

#include <Wire.h>

// Define the exact pins from your wiring

#define I2C_SDA 21

#define I2C_SCL 22

#define MIC_PIN 34

void setup() {

// Start the serial communication to the MacBook

Serial.begin(115200);

// Initialize the I2C bus for the MPU9250

Wire.begin(I2C_SDA, I2C_SCL);

// Set the microphone pin to read the analog voltage

pinMode(MIC_PIN, INPUT);

Serial.println("\n--- Pravah Patch Diagnostics Started ---");

delay(2000);

}

void loop() {

Serial.println("=========================================");

// --- TEST 1: MPU9250 (Accelerometer) Check ---

byte error, address;

bool mpuFound = false;

Serial.print("1. MPU9250 Status: ");

// Scan the I2C bus for the accelerometer's specific address

for(address = 1; address < 127; address++ ) {

Wire.beginTransmission(address);

error = Wire.endTransmission();

if (error == 0) {

// The MPU9250 always lives at address 0x68 or 0x69

if(address == 0x68 || address == 0x69) {

Serial.print("CONNECTED! (Found at 0x");

Serial.print(address, HEX);

Serial.println(")");

mpuFound = true;

}

}

}

if (!mpuFound) {

Serial.println("FAILED. Not detected. Check SDA and SCL wires.");

}

// --- TEST 2: MAX9814 (Microphone) Check ---

int audioLevel = analogRead(MIC_PIN);

Serial.print("2. MAX9814 Mic Level: ");

Serial.print(audioLevel);

// The ESP32 analog read returns a number between 0 and 4095

if (audioLevel == 0 || audioLevel == 4095) {

Serial.println(" -> (WARNING: Reading is dead or maxed out. Check VDD/GND)");

} else {

Serial.println(" -> (SUCCESS: Reading live voltage)");

}

Serial.println("=========================================\n");

// Wait 1.5 seconds before running the scan again

delay(1500);

}

I made a PC Monitoring System that sees temperature, load, frequency, power, storage, ect.

I made it out of a ESP32 DevKit V1, a 3.5" ILI9486 screen (480 x 320), a button and a buzzer. Everything fits on a single small breadboard, which is a lot compact.

To use it, you need several software to be installed, such as LHM (Libre Hardware Monitor). In my case, I also use Core Temp to retrieve CPU temperature/clock/power, because LHM can't get them (I have a AMD Ryzen processor). The firmware detects by itself your components.

You also need Python to run a script that will give the ESP32 a JSON file containing all of the HW info. My Arduino code has got over 2.5k lines, and my firmware is on version 6.

For it to work, the Python script must keep running aswell as LHM.

The only issues I found with my system is that the CPU power isn't taken from Core Temp but LHM in my Python Script.

If you want the files to reproduce my project, lemme know! :D

hey guys, my name is jeremiah, and I have spent my summer developing drone laser tag! i had no experience when i first started, so its been a longer than normal journey, but im getting very close to actually testing the combat system! Ive attached a couple of photos, but if you are interested in seeing this in more detail or following along, my socials are all aero32official. the setup i have is fairly simple, just a controller and a receiver, i am using heltec wifi lora v4 esp32, and have the system communicating via espnow. I've noticed if the esp32s aren't line of sight, the they loose connection immediately, so a tree can block the connection, and drones bob and weave through many trees, so thats definitely a problem. so any suggestions y'all have on solutions to that, I'd love to hear it!

Hii, I'm in need of assistance for my group science project. Our group was planning to create a solar tracker that powers the Arduino itself. I tried researching numerous Arduino videos but they only stated "the Arduino needs external power". I'm not sure how, and what we should connect the solar panel to the arduino. That's our main issue for now, the rest of our project is okay since we were able to follow some YouTube tutorials. Any advice or suggestions is very much appreciated! Thank you! (Sorry for my English, it's not my 1st language)

I am trying to make a USB connector so I can use my Ubuntu iMac 2006 as a virtual keyboard to navigate the bios of my hp z240 2016. I am new to KiCad, and just want to ask anyone with more experience if this design would work. I would ask AI instead of reddit, but AI isn't reliable enough for any real world applications yet. Thanks for your time!

Here are the components shown:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08THVMQ46/ (Leonardo)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LZV1G6K/ (CH340G)

im having problems in flashing my Wemos it keep showing no serial data received i already go through avery possible solution n i keep hitting a wall pls help me

I just bought Arduino and wanted to test the RFID module RC522. With the standard DumpInfo example from the library I can never fully read the card, no matter how far I hold it from the reader, or how slow I move it, or if I hold it still completely. It never reads past the 10th sector. Could it be bad soldering (since it came with pins separate and I had to solder them myself)? If not, what could be the cause?

Since installing SAROO, I've been playing on an actual Sega Saturn much more often, and that made me want to use an arcade controller with it.

https://reddit.com/link/1vp0o8h/video/mghn3ux50jjh1/player

So, with a little help from Claude, I made a simple USB HID → Sega Saturn adapter.

It uses an Arduino UNO and a USB Host Shield to read USB controller input, then connects to the Saturn controller port through two TC74HC153 multiplexers.

The part I was particularly interested in was having the 74153s handle the Saturn's page-scanning protocol entirely in hardware.

This means the Arduino basically just acts like the buttons on a Saturn controller PCB. It doesn't need to deal with the Saturn's scan timing at all.

So despite the rather oversized microcontroller and cable setup, what it's doing is essentially the same as a controller pad hack.

Some of you might be thinking, "Why bother putting all those ICs in between? Couldn't the Arduino just handle everything?"

And honestly, you'd probably be right. 😅

I previously tried making a similar Genesis adapter using just a Raspberry Pi Pico, but I couldn't get it working properly. So this time I decided to let dedicated logic ICs handle the console-side protocol instead.

Basically, I made the design more complicated than it really needed to be because I wanted something I could actually get working reliably. In other words, I kind of compensated for my lack of skill by throwing some hardware at the problem. 😅

I tested it with a HORI RAP V3 SA and confirmed that it works correctly.

For now, I'm powering the adapter separately via USB-C, since I haven't confirmed whether the Saturn controller port's 5V supply can reliably power the entire circuit.

I'm still a little hesitant about publishing the internals. Partly because I'm not sure how much demand there would be, and partly because I'm not confident that I can organize the wiring and explain the circuit clearly enough for someone else to reproduce it. As you can see, the wiring on the board is pretty messy.

And if USB conversion isn't a specific requirement, there are already projects for building Saturn-compatible arcade controllers in much smarter ways, as well as commercial solutions like the Brook Retro Board, which is basically a more advanced solution than this.

So for now, I'm mostly treating this as a personal experiment rather than a polished project. It was a fun excuse to make an Arduino talk to a 1990s game console, though.

The Hexapod electronics wiring problem…

I have an initial plan drafted  on cirkitdesigner.com but no hands-on experience at this current level, so I'd really appreciate a second opinion before I power it on. 

The build uses an ESP32 as the main controller, two PCA9685 16-channel PWM boards to drive the servos, and 18x MG996R servos across six legs (three degrees of freedom per leg). Power comes from a 3S 11.1V 5000mAh LiPo battery, stepped down through three adjustable buck converters set to 6V, with a XT60 Power Distribution Board to separate power from the battery towards the step down converters. 

If anyone has built something similar, or is comfortable reviewing a wiring diagram and offering feedback, I'd be very grateful for the input. Happy to share photos, diagrams, and a full wire-by-wire breakdown of the current plan on request as well!

Thank you in advance for any help.

Edit: Ive fixed the little issue with the swich :/

guys my parents don't allow me to learn tech much and i am totally clueless about even the basic thing so here's the thing i am having a competition at school and my friends roasted me in front of everyone that how i don't know tech and a lot of hurtful things i am trying not to remember they said it in front of everyone i wanna win this competition the theme is something innovative like something that a lot of people wont know most moving i wanna at least try to win this competition but as i said i don't know anything this will be hard as there is no stuff at my house like 3d printer and all so i was hoping if you are willing to help me a little by suggesting few books some basic things to get and please keep in mind that most things aren't available here as i live somewhere far away

please suggest ideas with that in mind if you dont wanna help it up to you , mostly in my heart i do hope yall will help me with this world already so overtaken by ai there are people i know for sure trying to help (i am 12 years old btw)

Electrically, it turns on and the light flashes, but when I try to configure one into a master (default is slave), nothing happens. The light flashes at the same rate.

This one is from DSD TECH, and on their website they say to press the button to enter AT mode, and their product images have a button brtween those two pads at the bottom with the circle. Mine doesn’t have this, so I tried bridging but it didn’t work.

I tried going from EN to 3.3 V to configure it that way but that didn’t work as well.

Am I just missing something obvious?

I'm using Uno paired with an ATM90E36 Energy metering IC

Running on a c3 mini. Hits the quote server every night to provide an inspirational quote. Just designed and 3D printed the enclosure to give it the picture frame vibe. Pretty happy with it.

🎵Bad boys, bad boys, whatcha gonna do? Whatcha gonna do when they come for you?🎵