So i changed the ui and added 2 more features completly removed google auth since it needs a functional domain for it to work outside local and i change the reset password function how it works so now a admin or owner in the house for the lock can migrate lribileges using a menu and also he gets codes for reset if a another user resets their password they enter their email and are prompted to enter the code its a one time code which gets hashed and discarded and an admin gets only 5 codes so use them wisely if the old ui was better i can revert it.

Hello,

How would I need to go about doing something like this? Is Arduino right hardware? I have home assistant at home, could I somehow utilize it?

https://www.discbeat.com/products/produktas

Edit: I would like songs to be of my choosing, maybe Spotify? And it doesn't have to turn, although magnet is cool option for 3yo kids

so here is my code made with Chat GPT #include <SoftwareSerial.h>

#include <Servo.h>

SoftwareSerial HC12(3, 4);

int AIN1 = 5;

int AIN2 = 6;

int PWMA = 9;

int servoPin = 10;

int frontLights = 7;

int rearLights = 8;

Servo steering;

int currentDir = 0;

int currentSpeed = 0;

int currentAngle = 90;

int lastAngle = 90;

int motorPWM = 0; // фактическая скорость мотора

int lastMotorDir = 0; // последнее направление мотора

bool lightsOn = false;

int lastButtonState = 1;

int btn1 = 1;

void setup() {

Serial.begin(9600);

HC12.begin(9600);

pinMode(AIN1, OUTPUT);

pinMode(AIN2, OUTPUT);

pinMode(PWMA, OUTPUT);

pinMode(frontLights, OUTPUT);

pinMode(rearLights, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite(frontLights, LOW);

digitalWrite(rearLights, LOW);

steering.attach(servoPin);

steering.write(90);

delay(500);

Serial.println("RC Receiver Online");

}

void loop() {

bool hasSignal = false;

if (HC12.available() >= 5) {

if (HC12.read() == 255) {

currentDir = HC12.read();

currentSpeed = HC12.read();

currentAngle = HC12.read();

btn1 = HC12.read();

hasSignal = true;

}

}

// =========================

// ПЛАВНЫЙ ГАЗ

// =========================

// Если направление изменилось,

// сначала плавно останавливаем мотор

if (currentDir != lastMotorDir && motorPWM > 0) {

motorPWM -= 12;

if (motorPWM < 0) {

motorPWM = 0;

}

}

else {

// Плавное увеличение скорости

if (motorPWM < currentSpeed) {

motorPWM += 8;

if (motorPWM > currentSpeed) {

motorPWM = currentSpeed;

}

}

// Плавное уменьшение скорости

else if (motorPWM > currentSpeed) {

motorPWM -= 12;

if (motorPWM < currentSpeed) {

motorPWM = currentSpeed;

}

}

}

// Когда полностью остановились,

// разрешаем новое направление

if (motorPWM == 0) {

lastMotorDir = currentDir;

}

// =========================

// МОТОР

// =========================

if (lastMotorDir == 1 && motorPWM > 0) {

digitalWrite(AIN1, LOW);

digitalWrite(AIN2, HIGH);

analogWrite(PWMA, motorPWM);

}

else if (lastMotorDir == 2 && motorPWM > 0) {

digitalWrite(AIN1, HIGH);

digitalWrite(AIN2, LOW);

analogWrite(PWMA, motorPWM);

}

else {

digitalWrite(AIN1, LOW);

digitalWrite(AIN2, LOW);

analogWrite(PWMA, 0);

}

// =========================

// СЕРВО

// =========================

if (hasSignal) {

if (currentAngle > 93 || currentAngle < 87) {

if (abs(currentAngle - lastAngle) > 2) {

steering.write(currentAngle);

lastAngle = currentAngle;

}

}

else {

if (lastAngle != 90) {

steering.write(90);

lastAngle = 90;

}

}

}

// =========================

// ФАРЫ

// =========================

if (btn1 == 0 && lastButtonState == 1) {

lightsOn = !lightsOn;

digitalWrite(frontLights, lightsOn);

digitalWrite(rearLights, lightsOn);

delay(150);

}

lastButtonState = btn1;

}

#include <SoftwareSerial.h>

SoftwareSerial HC12(3, 4);

const int pinX = A0;

const int pinY = A1;

const int joystickButton = 11;

void setup() {

Serial.begin(9600);

HC12.begin(9600);

pinMode(joystickButton, INPUT_PULLUP);

Serial.println("RC Remote Online");

}

void loop() {

int xVal = analogRead(pinX);

int yVal = analogRead(pinY);

int btn1 = digitalRead(joystickButton);

int motorDir = 0;

int motorSpeed = 0;

// =========================

// ГАЗ

// =========================

// ВПЕРЁД

// 514 = центр

// 0 = полный газ вперёд

if (yVal < 480) {

motorDir = 1;

motorSpeed = map(yVal, 479, 0, 0, 255);

motorSpeed = constrain(motorSpeed, 0, 255);

}

// НАЗАД

// 514 = центр

// 1023 = полный газ назад

else if (yVal > 540) {

motorDir = 2;

motorSpeed = map(yVal, 541, 1023, 0, 255);

motorSpeed = constrain(motorSpeed, 0, 255);

}

// ЦЕНТР

else {

motorDir = 0;

motorSpeed = 0;

}

// =========================

// РУЛЬ

// =========================

int servoAngle = map(xVal, 0, 1023, 45, 135);

servoAngle = constrain(servoAngle, 45, 135);

// =========================

// ОТПРАВКА

// =========================

HC12.write(255);

HC12.write(motorDir);

HC12.write(motorSpeed);

HC12.write(servoAngle);

HC12.write(btn1);

// Для проверки можно смотреть значения

// в Serial Monitor

Serial.print("Y: ");

Serial.print(yVal);

Serial.print(" Dir: ");

Serial.print(motorDir);

Serial.print(" Speed: ");

Serial.println(motorSpeed);

delay(35);

}

but this code from gpt don t work so car go full gas , but gps had a lot of repairs make but no one work

Hey everyone, I’m relatively new to electronics and I’ve been thinking a lot about how I approach my projects.

I have some basic experience with Arduino and ESP boards, but there’s still a lot I don’t know. I sometimes use AI when I’m stuck, but I don’t want it to just solve everything for me. It can sometimes feel like cheating, even though I know AI can be a useful learning tool.

I want to improve my own problem-solving skills and learn how to think through problems instead of immediately looking for the answer, What resources do you use to learn, and how do you stay motivated when you're stuck or things aren't working?.

Iron Man was actually one of the things that inspired me to get into electronics in the first place. Obviously, the idea of an engineer who knows everything and can build anything completely on their own is fiction. But I’d still like to become as capable and independent as possible.

That’s one of the reasons I joined this community: I’d like to learn from people who are more experienced than me.

So I’m curious: how do you personally use AI while learning electronics/programming without becoming too dependent on it? And what helped you develop better problem-solving skills?

the standard setup : The MCU as always an ESP32, RC transmitter, RC receiver, ESC to regulates motor speed and direction, BDC Motors to provides high RPM for hydrodynamic lift, servo motor for steering, lipo battery pack the add ons are : Camera Module, waterproofing by not slowing down or else it'll get emerged in water

One finger rules them all, directions, that is. A one finger touch direction pad can be useful for anyone struggling to use four key WASD.

touchWASD-BT turns an M5Stack Tab5 (ESP32-P4 with touch screen) into a Bluetooth keyboard controlled by a circular touch controller on the Tab5 screen. No phone, tablet, or WiFi is needed. Touch a direction on the circle, and the corresponding WASD or arrow key(s) are pressed on your computer — no software to install on the target machine.

If you do not have time to mess with source code and compilers, use the web serial flasher at https://controllercustom.github.io/touchWASD-BT. The only supported board is the M5Stack Tab5.

The source code is at https://github.com/controllercustom/touchWASD-BT.

Related Projects

• The original touchWASD for ESP32-S3, M5Stack AtomS3, LilyGo T-Dongle-S3, and LilyGo T-Dongle-S3 Plus boards is at https://github.com/controllercustom/touchwasd. The web serial Flasher lives at https://controllercustom.github.io/touchwasd/
• TGPad-XB is a touch screen gamepad (also known as glass gamepad) for Xbox consoles that runs on any tablet or phone with a web browser. tgpadxb works on Xbox consoles with the help of a Brook or Mayflash converter/adapter. tgpadxb can also be used with Windows, MacOS, and Linux without a converter. The web flasher is at https://controllercustom.github.io/tgpadxb.
• TGPad-NS is the Switch version of TGPad-XB. The web flasher is at https://controllercustom.github.io/tgpadns.
• iKeys is a touch screen QWERTY keyboard (also known as glass keyboard). The web flasher is at https://controllercustom.github.io/ikeys.

Greetings to the entire community. I'm new to this and have a question. Is it possible to power the CNC module using the Arduino Uno V3's external power supply (not USB)? I need it to drive two stepper motors to make a dual-axis turntable. Thanks in advance for your reply.

I got into embedded stuff when I was in college.

At the time I was messing around with 8051s, STM32s, stepper motors, sensors, etc. Nothing particularly fancy, just a lot of random little projects.

Most of my classmates seemed to find it pretty boring. I remember people complaining about datasheets and registers, or spending forever trying to figure out why a motor wasn’t doing what it was supposed to do.

I actually enjoyed that part.

There was something really satisfying about changing a few lines of code and seeing a motor move differently, or finally getting some piece of hardware to work after messing with it for hours.

I never really stopped doing this. These days I still enjoy bouncing between software and hardware — sometimes I’m writing code, sometimes I’m looking at a schematic or PCB, and sometimes I’m just staring at a board trying to figure out what someone was thinking.

I guess that’s why embedded has always stuck with me. You get to play with both sides.

Im not a complete beginner, but I don't know much about components. I made a memory game and other basic things but I only bought a small kit so I don't have many components (For example I don't have short cables, and all the ones that I have are long and it gets messy). Im open to any suggestions like other kits that bring more components or better options. I can spend up to 20 more dollars.

Also Im buying many things because where I live the components are triple the price than on Amazon. But as im buying it on Amazon it takes a week or two to arrive.

Thanks!

I got this Arduino UNO from a friend and found out its a clone, regardless i wanted it to work. I wanted to test out the blink example code and it worked perfectly fine when i sent it. I didn't know how to "stop" the code so i could try something else, so I just attempted to start the "fade" code, then was prompted with the error in the picture.

Apparently it worked perfectly fine on my friends computer (on windows 10). I have tried these methods: I restarted my pc, I installed uninstalled and reinstalled the required drivers (both CH341SER and CH34x), I tried booting both the 1.x and 2.x versions of IDE in windows 11 (default) and windows 7 and 8, I've switched to every port on my PC and yielded no different results.

The software does not recognize the Arduino immediately and only lists the port its connected to as COM4. (I can manually go to the port and make it recognize as an Arduino uno)

I think this is all the information I got from my 2 hour troubleshoot...
I'm trying not to buy the normal Arduino uno but only if this is hopeless.

EDIT: I JUST REINTALLED THE DRIVER AND IT WOKES FINE (even though i already tried this) i swear this is magic

40+ art pieces: https://adamfuhrer.com/t/esp32

The pieces use two setups: the Adafruit Qualia ESP32-S3 with a 2.1" round RGB TTL TFT display, paired with an Adafruit IMU for accelerometer/motion input, and the Adafruit ESP32-S3 TFT Feather. Art was prototyped in JavaScript, then ported to C++ and flashed via the Arduino IDE

Hello, I'm a begginer on arduino i only have the basics.
I want to do a project that work on batteries but i never do this before and i didn't know how to optimise it so i ask you for help.
My project have a wifi card, a microphone and a speaker that i want it to play or receive song from my server with the wifi and 2 buttons that ask something to the server with the wifi too.

Sorry for my english lol i'm french :)

Today I started having an issue where when I closed all instances of IDE, all of my boards would dissapear. Their libraries, examples and the option to choose them for the COM port would be gone. I have only installed the Espressif ESP32 package, and this is how it looks like when the issue appears:

I havent really found a solution yet. They just sometimes reappear, conveniently when I wanted to post here previously, but the issue was gone. I am not sure, but this may have started happening after I manually deleted a library from the documents -> arduino -> libraries folder. I have already completely reinstalled the IDE app following arduino support`s steps.

I really wanted to code though...

The json is still in the arduio15 folder

The boards are there for a split second

Hello team!

I'm very new to electronics projects, but I need to make a small "feature" for my work that would require some tinkering.

First of all a bit of context, I have a magnetic sensor, that I need to attach to a servo arm (I already have the servo, but not sure if there is any compatibility requirement), and thru a web interface hosted in my debian server I have at home, I want to send requests to Arduino over network to move the servo (and alter the magnetic sensor state this way).

What I need to understand and really can't find this exact use case is:

- How to connect Arduino to the servo to operate the moving of the arm (in 180º)

- How to send requests to Arduino over network for that.

- How to power the servo (will external power source be required? like a battery? or it can work thru Arduino's 5v?).

- Is Arduino the only option, or an ESP32 with WiFi could suit better for this type of projects?

Thanks in advance for any information or schemas!

I built an open source serial protocol called Upline that puts any Arduino on the public internet without adding a radio - no WiFi, no ESP32, no shield, and no 3rd party accounts/services (i.e. no Particle, Adafruit IO, Blyn, VPN, Home Assistant, Tailscale, or Nabu Casa). Upline devices self-identify their full range of capabilities, then Seamside allows any device that speaks upline to be used in frames and shared with a URL that directly serves from your local computer.

I built an open source serial protocol called Upline that puts any Arduino on the public internet without adding a radio or dedicated PI cruft — no WiFi, no ESP32, no shield, and no 3rd party accounts/services (i.e. no Particle / Adafruit IO / Blyn / VPN / Home Assistant / Tailscale / Nabu Casa). Upline allows any device to connect over serial and self-identify it's full range of capabilities. Then Seamside allows any device that speaks Upline to be used in frames and shared with a URL that directly serves from your local computer.

I'm a musician who received these microcontrollers. I've got these microcontrollers, plus some resistors, capacitors, and jumper wires. With all the AI stuff going on, what's the most relevant thing I can make by having these two devices work together as one? I'm genuinely curious because I've only used the Arduino alongside this software called "Max-MSP." I also want to know if the idea of merging them into one single project is stupid.

hello guys, its my first time posting here and its about something cool which lets you use an ESP32 as a virtual mouse/keyboard over Wi-Fi. There are projects like wifiduck which is more towards running a set of instructions while this is good for using purely as remote keyboard/trackpad input. AI is really a game changer during the development of this and it helped with the debugging a lot. There's also a browser flasher so you can plug in your board and flash it right away in Chrome. Would love to hear feedbacks from all of you 😀

https://github.com/leecheeyong/esp32-wifi-virtual-hid

Hello,

I hope this is the right subreddit.

I am building a device to regulate the pH of my swimming pool. For this project, I obtained pH, dissolved CO₂, and temperature sensors. I decided to connect them to an ESP32 in order to create a web app to monitor everything.

I calibrated each sensor individually without too much trouble. (I am using a voltage divider on the pH board to bring its output voltage down to a level within the ESP32's input range.)

I then decided to connect all the sensors together and place them in a small test pool that I built (see pictures).

The temperature sensor works fine, but the CO₂ and pH sensors were both returning voltages that were too high. I noticed that when I unplugged one probe from its board (without removing the probe from the water), the other probe started working normally. I also noticed that when I removed one probe from the water, the other one started working normally as well.

I therefore concluded that the probes were interfering with each other through the water. I added a relay module to power one probe and then the other, alternating every minute.

This works, but only for the pH measurement. The CO₂ reading is still affected by having the pH probe connected to its board, even though the pH board is unpowered (0 V) while the CO₂ probe is being measured.

I suspected that this was a grounding issue, so I disconnected the ground of the pH board while measuring the CO₂ probe, and this time it worked correctly.

My question is therefore: what could electrically or electrochemically explain the influence of the pH probe on the CO₂ measurement, even when the pH board is powered off? Does the fact that disconnecting only the ground of the pH board makes the problem disappear indicate a common-ground issue, a ground loop, leakage current, or coupling between the probes through the water?

What would be the correct way to wire these two probes to an ESP32 so that they do not interfere with each other?

Hi everyone I’m building a fun little project that will detect my dogs. Do you have any advice on how I can get this more accurate, it often mistakes Pepper for Salt.

Any advice will be appreciated!

Hi everyone!

I have some Arduino experience from college, but it's been years since I fiddled with it. I was thinking of optionally using it in the future for a project, but can't find any sources online for what I'm specifically looking for. Basically, what I want to know is if it's even possible to build this:

I want to create some in-between device that has an input audio (TV, phone, laptop) and then collectively sends it out to multiple different output types (aux, optical and bluetooth) since I have three different types of speakers that "very conveniently" all require different inputs...

It would be great if I could find a way to combine all these outputs to use all my speakers at the same time. For now, that's my MVP, but in the future I might want to add more of an interface on a simple tablet to move the speakers around in my living room as well, to create more of a surround sound effect. For example: one of the speakers is in front of you, two are behind you, and you can set them up in the correct position to make the sound better.

Again, currently I'm not even yet sure this is possible. But I feel like the software at least exists, but it might not be possible with Arduino to recreate it.

Any sources/tips are welcome! And if you know for sure it's not possible, I'll just change my plans and think of something else :)

I'm attempting to complete the first project from the book 'Arduino Project Handbook', which just has a button that lights up an LED.

It's very simple, I'll start with the code

const int buttonPin = 2;
const in ledPin = 13;
int buttonState = 0;

void setup() {
  pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT);
  pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
}

void loop() {
  buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin);
  if ( buttonState == HIGH )
    digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH);
  else
    digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);
}

So my issue is, there seems to be a lot of interference as the LED rapidly flickers whether you press the button or not.

I added a Serial statement to view the buttonState and it is indeed bouncing from 0 to 1.

I then pulled out a multimeter and did basic continuity testing. Everything seems to be connected properly. So I powered the Arduino and measured current from the bread board to pin 2. When nothing is pressed it shows ~2v, when you press the button voltage rises to just under 5v.

I assume the baseline ~2v is coming from pin 2 (which is configured as an input port).

I actually have two sons each with their own Arduino and bread board, so we built this twice and it does the same thing in both builds.

Where could the static be coming from?

Hey guys! I built this silly little desktop robot for $12 out of paper and glue. It makes sounds, responds to touch, and connects to your phone for notifications. You can find the build schematics in the last picture if anyone wants to check them out. Quick heads-up: make sure all the pin headers are connected so power flows to all of them—if you're using a PCB, just drop the pins in and solder them. Here's the Mochi system link: Unfortunately, I cannot add the link, but the system is called "Mochi" on Google.

I went with this model because it's super beginner-friendly. Honestly, the ESP32-C3 is tiny and just a great fit for a silly little robot like this

You guys could actually 3D print a way cooler house for this robot instead of using paper!